MANILA: As they observed Eid Al-Adha, Muslim Filipinos reconnected with their families and relatives, as well as with memories and special traditions unique to the minority community they form in the predominantly Catholic country.
Like Muslims around the world, those in the Philippines also begin the day before sunrise, with families waking up early for the morning prayers and to observe the holiday, which emphasizes sacrifice, gratitude, charity and compassion.
After prayers, families offer goats or cows and distribute the meat to the community. After that, feasts and celebrations are shared with relatives, friends, neighbors and guests.
For Tahir Malikol, a chef and educator from Cotabato City, known for promoting the heritage of Bangsamoro, the main Muslim-majority region of the Philippines, the communal spirit of Eid is its main hallmark.
“We celebrate it as a feast where everyone is welcome. Anyone who wants to visit the house and eat is invited,” he told Arab News.
“People come together in the spirit of bayanihan — everyone contributes something. Some bring water, some bring delicacies, others bring spices and ingredients. Everyone shares in the preparation and celebration.”
Across Muslim communities in Mindanao island, Sulu archipelago or Zamboanga peninsula in the Philippines’ south — such as Maguindanaon, Maranao, Tausug, Yakan, Iranun and Sama-Bajau — traditional dishes usually prepared and served only during special occasions take center stage during the celebration.
Among the Maguindanaon and Iranun people, one of the main such dishes is sinina — a coconut-based beef or goat stew known for its smoky, savory flavor.
Maranaos have riyandang, which is similar to Indonesian and Malaysian slow-cooked rendang stew, although with fewer spices.
“Instead, the flavor comes mainly from ground rice used as starch, sakurab — a local aromatic ingredient found in Mindanao, especially in Lanao — chili and toasted coconut,” Malikol said.
Tausug, Sama-Bajau and Yakan communities serve kulma, a rich beef curry dish, and tiyula itum, or “black soup,” a famous meat stew with a dark broth made from burned or charred coconut meat.
In the past, both were reserved for royalty and high-ranking figures such as datus — local rulers or traditional chieftains.
“These dishes are traditionally served only during special celebrations,” Malikol said. “Ordinary people were not allowed to eat them before. Even today, they are still prepared served when there are special guests.”
Another Maguindanao specialty is linigil, a coconut-based stew cooked slowly until the sauce reduces and becomes dry. The coconut mixture becomes glossy and sticky, coating the meat. There are two versions: linigil as api made with beef, and linigil a manok made with chicken.
“For linigil a manok, the chicken is first boiled until tender but not fully cooked. Then it is hung upside down for 24 hours to drain all the moisture and dry out completely. The next morning it will be cooked further. This process is still followed today,” Malikol said.
“These dishes are served during Eid Al-Adha and Eid Al-Fitr, as well as royal enthronements of datus and sultans. The celebrations are considered incomplete without them because they are highly labor intensive and reserved for the most important occasions.”
For the sweets, among the highlights is the dudol, which is made of rice flour and coconut milk mixed and cooked by stirring slowly and continuously for six to eight hours by two people.
Traditionally, while cooking dudol, people are expected to remain quiet. They are not supposed to laugh or talk because it is believed the dessert will not cook properly otherwise.
As they joined for celebrations on Wednesday, many Filipinos felt reconnected not only with their family members, but also memories.
Aliyya Samir, who comes from Sulu, always remembers her mother, especially when tiyula itum is served.
“Before she passed, my mother would always prepare tiyula itum for Eid or any special occasion,” she said.
“Eating it now brings back so many memories of her warmth and the way she looked after everyone. That’s exactly what makes having it during Eid so special,” she said.
“It feels like a warm hug from the past, a way to keep our traditions alive and a beautiful way to keep mommy’s spirit right there with us at the table.”
For Maher Usman, from Zamboanga del Sur, Eid Al-Adha is a time when the generosity of local people “truly shines” as they are reminded of their roots.
“For us Maguindanaons, Eid Al-Adha, or what we also call Hari Raya Haji, is a reflection of our deep faith, our willingness to sacrifice and the strong bond that holds our families together,” he said.
“With every bite of kyuning or sinina, we are reminded of our ancestors and our identity as Maguindanaons. Sharing meals together is our way of thanking Allah and recognizing that no matter how difficult life may be, as long as we have our family and our faith, we are already blessed.”
