Le Relais de L’entrecote: Winning formula for a salad, a steak and a sauce

I have known the original restaurant located near the Porte Maillot in Paris, hence its name, “L’Entrecote Porte-Maillot”, since the 1980’s. More often than not, you have to stand in a queue on the pavement for half an hour and sometimes even more, so you really get to see the name of the restaurant! I always knew that in a matter of time, this simple but enjoyable food would make its way to Riyadh.
It is interesting to know that the founder of “l’Entrecote Porte Maillot”, Paul Gineste de Saurs, decided from the very beginning that his restaurant would have only one main dish, the “steak-frites” served with its famous top-secret green sauce and only a green salad as a starter.
After his death in 1966, three separate franchises were set up by three of his children. All three carry on the winning formula, the key to his success.
The” Relais de l’Entrecote,” located on Tahlia Street in Riyadh, is part of a group founded by one of his daughters, Marie-Paule Burrus, which operates three restaurants in Paris and one in Geneva, as well as six others operating under license, two in Beirut, and one each in Kuwait City, Doha, Dubai and Riyadh.
Helene Godillot, another of Paul Gineste de Saurs’ daughters has taken the control of the original restaurant at Porte Maillot and has five additional locations, three in London, one in New York and one in Bahrain. All the descendants of Paul Gineste de Saurs operate their groups of restaurants under slightly different names but they all feature the same formula: a lettuce-and-walnut salad as a starter followed by the “steak-frites” accompanied by its famous secret green sauce.
Interestingly enough, Le Monde, the reputed French newspaper, listed the ingredients which were in that secret sauce, namely: chicken livers, fresh thyme and thyme flowers, full cream, Dijon mustard and butter. The article went on to explain in detail how the sauce was made. First, chicken livers are blanched in one pan along with the thyme until they begin to take a brown color. In a second pan, the cream is flavored with thyme flowers and reduced on low heat with the mustard. The chicken livers are then finely minced and pressed through a strainer into the reduced cream. As the sauce thickens, pieces of butter are incorporated into it; a little water is added to the sauce and beaten until it is smooth. As a final touch, fresh-ground salt and pepper are added. However, Helene Godillot was later quoted as saying that the article published in Le Monde was incorrect. After all, the secrecy surrounding the origin of the sauce is part of the restaurant’s success!
The French in their majority enjoy their meat rare which means that it is lightly cooked and the flesh still contains some blood. Some even prefer it “bleu” or “blue”, that is very rare, barely grilled. Another acceptable answer to the degree-of-doneness question about steaks is to order one’s steak “a point”, meaning “just right”. However, when you order your meat “a point”, it usually comes out as about medium rare in American terms. In theory, it means “medium”, but as anywhere, the actual degree of doneness you’ll get, if you order your steak “a point”, will vary from place to place. But you should know that if you order your steak well done, you generally end up with a steak which is tough and dry. French steaks tend to be very lean and this is the reason why the meat tends to get very tough if it is cooked past medium-rare.
Le Relais de L’entrecote in Riyadh features the winning formula which is a nice green salad with walnuts as a starter. The dressing is a typical vinaigrette, the French salad dressing made with oil, vinegar, mustard and salt and pepper. Generally, the steak and fries arrive quickly. After the first helping of your main course which includes four pieces of meat and as many fries as you wish, the waiter will return to your table for a second helping of meat, three pieces and of course the crispy, golden “frites” (French Fries).
Incidentally, the secret about French Fries (aka “Pommes Frites”) is that they must be cooked twice. The first cooking softens them, and thoroughly cooks the inside of the potato pieces, but does not brown them. This first step can be done well in advance. The second frying is accomplished just before serving; it’s this second step which makes the “frites” golden brown and crispy. Irresistibly addictive!
The Relais de l’Entrecote is known for its extensive list of mouthwatering desserts whose price is not included in the formula (salad and steak and fries only).
I love the “Crème Brulee” which is simply an egg custard topped with a sheet of burnt sugar: a symphony of sweet, creamy perfection! A firm rap with the back of the spoon and the crust shatters beautifully. And the soft, creamy custard yields with sheer ease. What sublime contrast: each bite, crunchy and smooth, toasty and lush!
In France this egg delicacy has been recorded since 1691 as a basic combination of cream, egg yolk, sugar and vanilla covered with a hardened caramel which needs to be cracked through to access the creamy dessert. However, its origins may not be French at all! It is challenged by the British and the Spanish who claim their version of the dessert is the origin of this French delicacy.
Incidentally, the Crème brulee can be served flavored with lavender, pumpkin, saffron, coconut, pistachio and any fruit imaginable but I do prefer the classic version. Moreover, the crème brulee’s popularity has transcended the dessert itself. Now there’s crème brulee ice cream, crème brulee flavored coffee, not to mention crème brulee cheesecake, doughnuts, pancakes and cupcakes! I have even come across a savory version of the Crème Brulee made with dried tomatoes and Parmesan cheese!
Another famous dessert at Le Relais de ’Entrecote is Profiteroles: Cream puffs filled with vanilla ice cream and topped with hot chocolate sauce. Apparently a 16th-century Italian chef named Popelini, who worked for Catherine de Medici, wife of the French King Henri II, was the first to think of putting a filling inside cream puffs. But this is just a myth and the ancestor of the cream puff can be traced back to the Middle Ages. Profiteroles are prepared with a dough that is cooked on the stove, hence the original French name of this pastry: “pate a chaud” (heated dough), which later became known as “pate a choux” (dough for cabbages, because these puffs look like mini-cabbages). This in turn gave birth to the French expression “Mon petit choux” which does not mean “My little cabbage” but rather, “My little cream puff”.
If you have not eaten too many French fries and you still have room for a dessert I do suggest you order “Profiteroles.” This aristocratic sweet is crunchy, airy, chocolaty, creamy and yes! Absolutely scrumptious! Bon appétit!