What is it about the Aran Islands that makes them so special to visitors from around the world? Maybe their location off the remote west coast of Ireland in the mouth of Galway Bay. Maybe the relatively undiluted culture of a people separated from the mainland by a sometimes impassable stretch of sea. What is certain is that writers, poets and artists have found the islands bewitching, and tourists come like summer swallows to seek out their magic.
They could be following the advice given by the great Irish poet W. B. Yeats to the writer John M. Synge: “Go to the Aran Islands and find a life that has never been exposed in literature.” Synge, who had been living in Paris and in the view of Yeats disconnected from his literary roots, took his advice, and his 1907 book “The Aran Islands” recounts his experiences among the Gaelic-speaking fishermen and farmers.
A fast ferry transports the visitor from the port of Rossaveal, an hour’s scenic drive from the city of Galway, across to the islands. It’s also possible to fly using the Aer Arann service from Inverin. Most visitors head for the largest island, Inishmore, but the smaller islands of Inismaan (middle island), and Inisheer (smallest island) are also worth a look.
Upon arrival at Inishmore by ferry, the visitor is met by a line of minibuses driven by local men. For a reasonable price they offer tours of the island that are well worth accepting, because they cover all the key points of interest. The Bronze Age semi-circular fort of Dun Aengus with its formidable stone defenses and stunning cliff top location evokes memories of ancient times, when islanders would have endured the wind and desolation for safety. The cliffs plummet straight down to the crashing Atlantic waves below, so wandering up to the edge, which looks like its been cut by a knife, is not for the faint-hearted.
Inishmore, with its population of just 900, has a rich spiritual history. Nobel Laureate James Joyce described it as “The holy island that sleeps like a great shark on the grey waters of the Atlantic Ocean.” Saint Enda, a sixth century Irish prince, founded his famous monastic school on Inishmore, and the site retains an air of great tranquility.
In the sunken church of St. Keevaun’s, half buried in sand, lie the remains of St. Caomhan, famed for having the power to calm storms at sea.
Also on the island is the world’s smallest church, the 11th century Tempall Bheanain. Everywhere you look are dry stone walls enclosing the fields. Skillfully assembled stone by stone with no mortar, they have the intricacy of lace when backlit by the sun. They are the defining feature of the wild and rugged landscape.
For the more energetic tourists, hiring a bike is a great way to get around. There’s also the option of a horse-drawn cart, whose elderly drivers have a great store of local history. Once the main tour of the island is done — and there’s no sense of rush — it’s time for lunch, although it has to be said that there’s nothing five star about the bars and restaurants on Inishmore. However, the Irish pub atmosphere of chat, easy-going staff and traditional music soon draws in even the most reserved visitor.
If you need a souvenir, the hand-knit Aran sweaters, famed for their beautiful design and warmth, will last a lifetime and always remind you of what the Irish poet Seamus Heaney called “the three stepping stones out of Europe.”
The Aran Islands
The Aran Islands
