Yildizlar: The restaurant time machine

Author: 
SHARIF ISLAM, THECRITIC@JEDDAHFOOD.COM
Publication Date: 
Wed, 2010-05-12 18:24

Modern would not be an appropriate word to describe Yildizlar. Curtains made from a deep velvety red cover a large window, and rather than looking out onto the uninteresting Jeddah parking lot, you see a massive panoramic picture of what looks like the Lebanese capital Beirut. Keeping in-line with the overall theme of the establishment, the photo also seems to have been taken during the 1970s.
Chandeliers hanging from the ceiling are nothing like the shiny crystal types that seem so common in Jeddah. Instead, these are made of an opaque brownish glass that hang down as if they organically grew that way over the years due to the natural force of gravity. They have a sort of candy like appeal that might entice some to give it a lick, only to be disappointed that it tastes of glass, similar to the way a child might take a bite of out a red crayon only to find that it tastes of wax. 
The final touch to the general demeanor of Yildizlar is waiters dressed in old-style tuxedos, bowties and all.  While the décor may not be especially fancy or classy, it does give the restaurant a certain quirky atmosphere, and there is always something to be said for those who are willing to stick to their guns no matter how much times have changed. Yildizlar is a time machine in another way, in that the food takes one back to 1970s Lebanon.
For many of its customers, perhaps those specifically of Arab decent, it takes you back to childhood. A time where the taste of your mother’s food was comforting, exciting, and a miraculous experience all at once. One has to fight the urge to scurry into the kitchen to see if it is in fact his own mother or grandmother behind the stove. All this is to say that the food is quite delicious. The mezzes consists of your usual suspects: meat cheese and spinach sumbosas, kibbeh, kibbehneeya, hummus, babaganoush, tahina cooked with onions, muhamara and stuffed grape leaves, all served with baskets of toasted white and wheat Arabic bread. All were filling and delicious. I had to pass on the kibbehneeya due to a bad experience as a child, but my friends seemed to love it.
The entrées consisted of grilled kofta, fish, and chicken, all of which were packed with flavor. They were served with what I like to call Lebanese pizza slices, and French fries. The Lebanese pizza was a nice and light accompaniment to the grilled goods. I did not bother with the French fries because, in all honesty, it simply seemed like a waste of space in my already filling belly.
By the end of the feast, it is quite difficult to move and think effectively.  It might be wise to avoid Yildizlar if you are trying to watch your waistline. While the food is many things, it certainly is not diet-friendly. It is, however, extremely soul-friendly.
Unfortunately, if there is one area in which Yildizlar is lacking, it seems to be the service.  Although the waiters are well dressed I cannot say, at least in my personal experience, that they were consistently well behaved. I ordered a carrot juice and it came at room temperature when I was expecting it to be cold.  I finished my glass of water and it remained empty for the rest of my time there. Upon removing a bread basket from the table, a waiter grabbed the last piece of bread with his bare hands and tossed it over to another basket.
To prepare for the entrée, the waiters place small warm grills on the table to keep the grilled goods hot, which I certainly appreciate. However, without so much as a tap on the shoulder, one waiter simply pushed my chair aside to make space while I was still eating and sitting. In the process, he knocked over my fork and did not even offer an apology.
The subordinate colleague standing behind him gets me another, but then the offending waiter has the nerve to point at the second fork reserved for the entrée. Once he was done, I was then forced to move my chair back to its original position.
I looked around and noticed that none of the other patrons had to go through such a demeaning process, so perhaps there was just something about my face that rubbed the waiter the wrong way.  That being said, the restaurant did seem to be quite popular with many patrons about, so it is perfectly possible that they are more concerned with speed than service. Either way, it did offend me and I hope that it is not a common occurrence.
Still, the food alone provides a joyous experience worth having. Looking around, I saw many tables filled with Saudis accompanied by foreigners of one sort or another. As an introduction to Lebanese cuisine, it is a perfect location. If you are looking to impress others with how modern and lavish Jeddah can be, go elsewhere as Yildizlar is all about the food.
Would I go again? Yes. Would I tip the service? No. Would I tip the chefs in the kitchen? Yes, and I would also throw in a great big hug.
 

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