In the slap-dash world of today, the first cup of tea that clears the morning mists is generally savored. But as the day progresses, tea of different blend and made in various styles is just sipped as part of the day’s routine — either as a habit or in someone’s company.
Rarely does one take time out to sit and enjoy the beverage that sets the world alight. Unless it is part of a custom or those who are romantically inclined, not much song and dance is made of drinking a cuppa shai (as tea is generally known in Asia).
The word tea in the English language comes from the Chinese word pronounced tê. Not only has it become common in our lexicon, it has also become an integral part of our daily lives.
The Yunnan Province in China is identified as the birthplace of tea — the first place where humans figured out that eating tea leaves or brewing a cup could be pleasant.
As time progressed, mankind developed new producing techniques to bring about various blends of tea, which not only brought about distinctive flavors but also enhanced its restorative properties.
The jingle from the famous Doris Day’s 1950 musical — tea for two, two for tea — readily comes to mind when romance and tea mingle. But, it is the romance in the definitive art of hospitality that has set apart this beverage from the rest.
Over time, evolving customs have elevated tea drinking into a veritable art form. Special dress code and ceremonial offerings in Japan and China are part of the tea lore. Of course, one cannot forget the high tea the British enjoyed in their colonies or in good old Blighty.
Unknown to many, but singularly practiced in the Sahara desert by the Mauritanians, is the Atay culture of drinking and serving tea — a rigid rite followed by the people of Mauritania wherever they are.
The offering of tea in the Saharawi and Mauritanian culture is a must at all ceremonies whether casual or formal. It is also served at each house up to four times a day — basically served with each meal or with every snack.
The Mauritanians are huge fans of green tea; they are also very picky about selecting the type of green tea they use for Atay. To them, tea can never be served ready with tea bags in a cup.
The Saharawis make the drinking of Atay an occasion. Its ceremonial rites are unyielding and any upsetting of the norms is believed to be bad form.
In the elaborate scheme of serving, the tea has to be prepared in a particular mode. It is skillfully drained into special cups. In addition the sipping and drinking of the brew is stretched for at least an hour before the host and guests can call it a day.
The key person is the master of ceremony, who controls and manages the proceedings. Once the guests sit for tea they have to complete the rite before leaving. The art is to stretch it for an hour in order for people to converse and discuss family matters, business or politics.
The ceremony derives its name from the type of glasses used to serve tea — mini-glasses are locally known as Atay. Each person is served at least three glasses of tea. It is further considered disrespectful if the host does not present it personally. It is also considered rude if the guests do not accept the repeated offering of tea.
No matter where they live, what their background and what their status, Saharawis and Mauritanians always have Atay in the traditional manner. They’ll have Atay at home, at work, on picnics, or anywhere and they are always prepared to have the ceremonial tea. The Mauritanians keep the set with them all the time to have a planned or an impromptu ceremony.
DO NOT DISTURB... the teamaker
The teamaker is highly respected and the Saharawis and Mauritanians will not let him or her stand up during the ceremony to pick up something or serve. Instead teamakers devote all their time to making tea. If they need anything or the tea needs serving, it is the job of the youngsters or friends to lend a helping hand.
Atay is never prepared away from the gathering being served. All the ingredients and vessels needed to make tea are brought to where the group gathers. Guests enjoy the ambience and converse while the teamaker prepares Atay. The teamaker has to silently accept criticism or implement suggestions, which are interspersed during the conversations.
The Atay ceremony includes two pots for making the tea. A bigger pot for water, several mini-glasses, a tray (sometimes with wheels) to serve tea, and a serving dish to keep all the vessels and ingredients on. Three bowls are kept in addition — one for sugar, another for the tea, and a third one for mint. Some still insist on making their tea on coal.
But nowadays, most of the tea is made on a portable gas stove in front of the guests or members of a family.
The process starts with a cup of water being boiled with half a cup of green tea in a pot. Then the tea would be put aside for making the froth. In the same pot more water gets boiled without adding any extra green tea.
Once the green tea is boiled, the teamaker creates the rich froth. The boiled tea is then poured into another pot, and sugar and mint gets added to it. Finally the tea is poured into the mini-glasses in such a way that bubbles appear on the top of the glasses.
The glasses are then placed on a tray and served to guests. This marks the first glass of tea, which is normally rich and dark. The teamaker then starts preparing second and third glasses of tea using the same process.
The quality of tea and the cleanliness of the tools used are indicated by the froth. That’s why trays and glasses are kept extra clean, and the master of ceremony ensures that not even a drop of tea is allowed to fall on the tray, even accidentally.
In the past, Atay was the exclusive domain of men. But times have changed. Women are the ones who serve Atay nowadays. The womanly touch is evident with the use of more ornate pots and glasses in the ceremony. They have even added new decorated apparatus and their own serving styles to the Atay culture.
Saharawis and Mauritanian women are keen to teach their daughters how to make and serve the best cup of Atay tea. They start the tradition as early as when they are 10 years old, for they believe that making the perfect Atay needs practice.
Several poets have dedicated poems describing the atmosphere during Atay. Preparing Atay calmly, taking as much time and in a relaxed manner is a plus to the tea and the ceremony. Value is added to Atay when the company is good. The Saharawis and Mauritanians like to enjoy their tea with a warm group of friends or relatives; they also like to have it with a meal or a snack on the side.
The green tea itself is mainly brought from China. People have emphasized on the choice of tea they use in Atay. Sometimes they even mix two types of green tea to get the best taste. The reason for the choice of green tea over other varieties is the belief the benefits of green tea is immense, especially as they believe it is a remedy to many pains such as headaches and stomach aches. They also use the used leaves, wrapped in a damp cloth, on the eyes to treat infections.
There is some truth in their beliefs. For the modern world has discovered the many benefits of green tea. Science has now revealed that green tea contains powerful antioxidants and antimicrobial activity and other health promoting properties.
Anyone for tea?
