PHARWALA, Pakistan: Nearly 40 kilometers from Islamabad, on a rugged plateau encircled by the Soan River and the hills of the Potohar region, the ruins of a once-formidable fortress rise above the landscape.
Believed to date back to the Hindu Shahi period before later expansion by the Gakhar tribe between the 10th and 15th centuries, the fort once guarded key routes leading into the Indian subcontinent and is regarded by historians as one of the region’s most significant surviving heritage sites.
But despite its historical importance as a fortress for strategic routes leading into the Indian subcontinent, as well as the legal protection accorded it under Pakistan’s Antiquities Act of 1975, the centuries-old fortress is slowly deteriorating under the combined pressure of neglect, encroachment and environmental damage.
During a recent visit by Arab News, overgrown vegetation covered parts of the fortification walls and gates while cattle and goats roamed freely through the ruins. Plastic waste and signs of human activity were visible across parts of the site, while some residents had established small farms close to the outer walls.
“Wild climate effects continue to weaken the structure,” Deputy Director of the Department of Archaeology Dr. Abdul Ghafoor Lone told Arab News.
“It took nearly a year just to clear plant growth from the fortification walls during the survey work in 2023.”
Ghafoor, who has been involved in documenting the site, estimated that roughly 20 to 30 percent of the structure has been damaged. While he described the fort as structurally resilient enough to survive for centuries, he warned that continued delays in preservation work could accelerate deterioration.
Historians describe Pharwala Fort as one of the most difficult forts in South Asia to conquer because of its steep cliffs, rocky slopes and thick defensive walls.
It is also believed that Mughal emperors Babur, Humayun and Akbar either visited or stayed at the site during different periods, highlighting its strategic importance along historic military and trade routes connecting Central Asia and Afghanistan to the subcontinent.
The fort originally had six gates: Lashkari Gate, Begum Gate, Ziarat Gate, Eastern Gate, Bagh Gate and Hathi Gate. While several still remain standing, many appear fragile and weathered. Lashkari Gate, once the fort’s principal military entrance, has partially collapsed.
According to archaeologists, parts of the fort’s internal structure were damaged during Sikh rule and later affected by decades of unregulated construction by local residents living within the broader settlement area.
“WE WILL NEVER LEAVE”
Today, around 25 families continue to live inside the fort vicinity, including members of the Gakhar community who trace their ancestry to the historic tribe associated with the site.
For many residents, the fort is not simply an archaeological landmark but a living connection to family identity and lineage.
“This is our identity and recognition,” said 27-year-old Subhan Kiyani, whose family has lived in the area for generations.
Standing near damaged walls and crumbling structures, Kiyani described the isolation faced by residents living inside the settlement.
“There is no school here, no hospital, and no proper roads,” he said, pointing toward the Soan River, where residents still lack a permanent bridge connection.
Despite the absence of basic infrastructure, Kiyani said residents would resist efforts to remove them from land tied to their ancestors.
“We can cooperate if restoration work begins,” he said. “If our land comes in front of the gates, we can sell it. But we will never leave this place.”
“Even if the government offers 800 million rupees ($2.87 million), we still would not leave because this is our identity.”
Archaeologists and officials say Pharwala Fort has the potential to become a major heritage and tourism destination because of its scale, location and historical significance.
Located close to Islamabad and Rawalpindi, the site could attract tourists, researchers and historians if proper infrastructure and conservation work are developed, officials say.
Ghafoor said improved roads, restored gates, guided walkways and visitor facilities could transform the site into a major cultural attraction in the Potohar region.
But restoration efforts remain stalled largely because of funding shortages and unresolved land acquisition issues.
DELAYED RESTORATION
According to the Department of Archaeology, a conservation proposal submitted in late 2023 is estimated to cost nearly Rs914 million ($3.28 million). The plan includes structural repairs, excavation work, visitor facilities, information centers, walkways and a bridge leading to the site.
Officials say around Rs87 million ($312,000) has been earmarked for acquiring privately owned land surrounding the fort.
If approved, authorities estimate the restoration project could take up to five years to complete.
Archaeologists believe excavation work inside the fort could also uncover buried structures, coins and artifacts that may help clarify parts of the site’s earlier history.
But officials warn that continued delays could result in irreversible losses.
“If restoration continues to be delayed, we may lose one of the region’s most important surviving heritage sites,” one official said.
