DUBAI: Melvyn Ngoundo Mbappe has worked in some of the world’s most celebrated kitchens.
Having trained in Paris, he cut his teeth at two French Michelin-starred institutions: Pavillon Ledoyen and the Ritz Paris.
A stint in New York followed before Mbappe returned to Paris, then later moved to Dubai, where he helmed Yvonne, a French patisserie, and consulted for Wane Group on menu development and operational efficiency. He then founded Green Society, a healthy meal-prep concept based in Dubai, where he also serves as executive chef.
Having trained in Paris, he cut his teeth at two French Michelin-starred institutions: Pavillon Ledoyen and the Ritz Paris. (Supplied)
When you started out, what was the most common mistake you made?
Wanting to go too fast. That speed ended up working against me. In the kitchen, precision matters more than pace. When you rush, you cut corners you don’t even realize you’re cutting. It took me time to understand that doing one thing perfectly is worth far more than doing five things quickly.
What’s your top tip for amateur chefs?
Take your time. Honestly, that’s it. Cooking isn’t a race. When you cook with patience and with love, something almost magical happens: the food tastes better. I truly believe that. You don’t need to be a trained chef to produce something extraordinary at home. You just need to slow down, be present, and put genuine care into what you’re making. People will feel that when they eat it.
What one ingredient can instantly improve any dish?
A great olive oil. And aromatics like thyme and rosemary. These things transform a dish without overcomplicating it. A drizzle of good olive oil at the end of a plate, a sprig of thyme in a sauce, these are small gestures that carry enormous flavor. They’re the difference between something that tastes fine and something that makes you stop and think: “Wait. What is that?”
When you go out to eat, do you find yourself critiquing the food?
I don’t really critique the food itself — I think every chef has their own interpretation and I respect that. But I’m very particular about certain details. Temperature, for example. A piece of fish or meat served at the wrong temperature tells me a lot about what’s happening in that kitchen. It is one of the fundamentals and when it slips it’s hard not to notice.
What’s the most common issue you find in other restaurants?
In Dubai specifically, the thing that strikes me most is that so many restaurants feel the same — the menus, concepts, and plating are all similar. There’s a kind of homogeneity here that can be frustrating. Dubai has such an extraordinary mix of cultures and influences, but so many restaurants play it safe. There’s enormous room for chefs here to be bolder, more personal and more original.
What’s your favorite cuisine or dish to order?
There are so many cuisines I love, but the food I crave most is my grandmother’s cooking. She is the one who taught me everything — not just technique, but emotion. She taught me what it means to give something of yourself through food and to make someone feel something when they eat. That’s the highest standard I know.
Also, when I see fried calamari on the menu, I’m ordering it. Every single time. It’s my absolute favorite starter. There’s something about a perfectly fried calamari — crispy, light, properly seasoned — that just makes me happy. No matter where I am in the world, that’s my go-to. Simple pleasures!
What’s your go-to dish if you have to cook something quickly at home?
Langues d’oiseau (aka orzo pasta), but cooked like a risotto. It sounds simple, but the result is incredible. I cook it with small onions, garlic, chicken stock, a little beef or veal ham, grated Emmental, and a poached egg on top. It’s pure comfort. When I make that dish, I feel completely at home, wherever I am. It’s my version of soul food.
What customer behavior most frustrates you?
Changing the garnishes of a dish. I understand that people have preferences and dietary needs, and I always try to accommodate. But when someone asks to change the garnish, they’re often unknowingly disrupting a balance that has been carefully thought through. Every element on a plate is there for a reason. The garnish isn’t decoration; it’s part of the flavor, the texture, the story of the dish. When you remove it, you’re eating something different from what the chef intended — and sometimes, something lesser.
What’s your favorite dish to cook?
My grandmother’s lobster. She would cook it in an incredibly rich, tomatoey bisque — deeply flavored and beautifully fragrant — with small, glazed vegetables and a perfect pilaf rice alongside. I remember the smell of that pot from across the house. It was something truly special. And then there’s the Sunday chicken: A whole roast chicken, crispy skin, with homemade fries. It sounds humble, but it was one of the best meals I’ve ever eaten. Not because of the ingredients, but because of what it meant — the whole family gathered around the table, everyone sharing, everyone happy. Food is about those moments as much as it’s about what’s on the plate. That’s what my grandmother understood, and that’s what she passed on to me.
What’s the most difficult dish for you to get right?
A perfectly cooked, perfectly seasoned omelet with absolutely no color. There’s nowhere to hide. Every mistake is visible, or worse, tastable.
As a leader, what are you like?
I’m pretty chill, honestly. I don’t shout, I always have a smile on my face, and I really believe that people can taste that in the food. A kitchen that runs on fear and aggression produces tense food. A kitchen that runs on respect and joy produces something else entirely. I share everything I know. I love to teach. But I also love to learn from every single person in my team; regardless of their level everyone has something to offer. That kind of openness makes a team stronger and makes the food better. I’m very much a listener, and that’s one of the most underrated qualities a head chef can have.
Chef Melvyn’s coconut rice pudding with mango and passion fruit:
Serves 4
Ingredients:
200g arborio rice
400ml coconut milk
400ml soy milk
1 vanilla pod, split and scraped
80g soft brown sugar (or white sugar)
Zest of 1 lemon
200ml double cream (for whipping)
1 ripe mango, finely diced
3–4 passion fruits
Optional: mango coulis (blended fresh mango, a squeeze of lemon, a little sugar)
Method:
Blanch the rice: Bring a pot of salted water to a boil. Add the arborio rice and blanch for 2–3 minutes. Drain and set aside. This removes excess starch and gives the rice a cleaner, lighter texture.
Prepare the cooking liquid: In a separate saucepan, combine the coconut milk, soy milk, vanilla pod and seeds, sugar and lemon zest. Bring gently to a boil, stirring to dissolve the sugar, then reduce to a low simmer.
Cook the rice: Add the drained rice to the simmering liquid. Cook over low heat for around 16 minutes, stirring continuously with a spatula, just as you would a risotto. The rice should absorb the liquid slowly and become thick, creamy and perfectly cooked. Be patient and keep stirring; this is what gives the pudding its silky texture. Season with a pinch of salt to balance the sweetness.
Cool the rice pudding: Transfer to a bowl and allow to cool completely. It will thicken as it cools, which is exactly what you want.
Prepare the fruit: Finely dice the mango into a small brunoise. Scoop out the passion fruit pulp and mix it through the mango. (If making the mango coulis, blend a portion of the mango with a squeeze of lemon juice and a little sugar until smooth, then fold it through the brunoise for extra depth and color.)
Make the whipped cream: Whip the double cream to soft peaks: light and airy, not stiff. Gently fold it into the cooled rice pudding using a spatula, working carefully so as not to knock out the air. This is what makes the pudding truly irresistible — rich yet light, and dense yet airy.
Plate and serve: Spoon the rice pudding into individual glasses or deep bowls. Delicately place the mango and passion fruit brunoise on top. Finish with a drizzle of mango coulis if desired. Serve chilled.
Chef’s note: “The magic of this dish is in the contrast — the warmth of vanilla and coconut against the brightness of the tropical fruit. It’s simple, elegant, and completely addictive.”
