Lahore Biennale aims to reclaim historical city’s place on international arts calendar

Special Lahore Biennale aims to reclaim historical city’s place on international arts calendar
This combination of photos, created on October 10, 2024, shows art instillations placed in Lahore’s iconic Shalimar Gardens ahead of the Lahore Biennale, a large-scale international contemporary exhibition, in Lahore. (Photo courtesy: Instagram/@lahorebiennalefoundation)
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Updated 10 October 2024
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Lahore Biennale aims to reclaim historical city’s place on international arts calendar

Lahore Biennale aims to reclaim historical city’s place on international arts calendar
  • Biennale features over 60 artists representing 30 countries and presenting site-specific exhibits as well as immersive installations
  • Artworks are featured at a dozen venues including Mughal-era Lahore Fort and Masjid Wazir Khan in Walled City, iconic Shalimar Gardens

LAHORE/ISLAMABAD: The Lahore Biennale, a large-scale international contemporary exhibition ongoing in the Pakistani city of Lahore, is aiming to reclaim the historical city’s place on the international arts calendar, its curator and featured artists have said, and be a “collective and participatory” event that involved the whole city and its citizenry. 
Of Mountains and Seas, the third edition of the Biennale, is curated by John Tain, the head of research at Asia Art Archive in Hong Kong, and considers the themes of ecology and sustainable futures, with special reference to recent floods and agricultural disasters in Pakistan as well as the country’s urban pollution and social, economic, political and sexual inequalities. 
This will be the first edition since 2020, which had Emirate curator Hoor Al Qasimi at the helm and was displayed before the COVID-19 pandemic.
The Biennale features over 60 artists representing 30 countries, presenting site-specific exhibits as well as immersive installations that draw attention to issues caused by environmental degradation, along with illuminating the city’s vernacular and indigenous heritage as transformative resources for future sustainability. 
Exhibitions are being featured across a dozen venues across the city, including the UNESCO World Heritage site the Lahore Fort in the ancient Walled City and the famed Mughal-era Shalimar Gardens, a true treasure of Islamic garden design and hydrology that will be showcased for the first time in the Biennale. 
“We wanted to showcase our art in a bustling public space, not art as gate-kept by colonial legacies or their bureaucracies,” Abdullah Qureshi, a Pakistani Artist who curated a show titled: ‘Decolonial Feminist Ecologies: On Body and Land’ put together by the Pakistan Art Forum (PAF) in collaboration with the Lahore Biennale Foundation, told Arab News. 
“We tend to think of art as this controlled, quiet space where people are observers from a distance. [The artists in this show] think about these ideas outside the Western canon.”
A press release by the biennale management said the idea of placing historic sites in dialogue with more contemporary works was aimed at bringing to light the ways Lahore’s celebrated culture, architecture, and gardens, “generally understood to symbolize its palimpsest of connections to Asia and Europe through trade routes and the migration of people and knowledge, also connects with more recent conversations about the significance of historical and indigenous forms of knowledge and practices as necessary alternatives to the extractivism that plague modern societies.”
“Evidence of these local and vernacular forms can be abundantly found everywhere in the architecture, art, cosmology, cuisine, and literature across the city, as well as in the diversity of its inhabitants— people whose relation to local and regional ecosystems have been fine-tuned over millennia of cohabitation and adaptation,” the statement added. 
Tain, who has previously served as curator of modern and contemporary collections at the Getty Research Institute, Los Angeles, sees the Lahore Biennale as being “collective and participatory in nature.”
“One way to think about a biennale is that it’s something which is a space in time that allows for activities and programs to take place and that necessarily involves other people outside the artist,” Tain said at an event before the launch of the exhibitions last week. 
“So I think what is being planned is not artists just making work and putting it on wall or putting it on a floor, but thinking about the work as something that involves other people.”
Qudsia Rahim, a graduate of Lahore’s esteemed National College of Arts and the executive director of the Lahore Biennale Foundation, said the purpose of the biennale was for the “whole city” to take part. 
“To be a part of this biennial, you don’t necessarily have to be an artist,” she said. “The good thing about art is that you don’t need the wall of a drawing room or gallery but what’s important is an idea and for that an audience is important … So, the point of the biennale’s purpose is how can we connect with each other, because we are social animals and in a way we want the whole city to be a part of this biennale.” 
“ART IN A BUSTLING PUBLIC SPACE”
Free and open to the public, the biennale commenced on Saturday, Oct. 5, and will run through Friday, Nov. 8, complemented by a number of collateral exhibitions and programs scattered all over the city. 
One such show that took place during the opening weekend (October 5–7) was the ‘Decolonial Feminist Ecologies: On Body and Land,’ curated by Abdullah Qureshi and featuring Iranian-born artist Sepideh Rahaa and Kenyan-German collaborative artist Syowia Kyambi.
“This is a collateral event for the Lahore Biennale 03, which is taking place in the Brown House inside the Masjid Wazir Khan courthouse,” PAF founder Imtisal Zafar told Arab News, referring to a 17th-century Mughal mosque located in the Walled City.
The mosque was commissioned during the reign of the Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan as a part of an ensemble of buildings that also included the nearby Shahi Hammam baths. Considered to be the most ornately decorated Mughal-era mosque, Masjid Wazir Khan is on the UNESCO World Heritage Tentative List.
“[Art] can’t be constricted to a neat and tidy studio or a clean canvas,” Nairobi-based Kyambi told Arab News. “Art is forever moving, changing and clamoring.”
Her work showed two distinct worlds, the high-rises and apartment complexes and rural countryside and at Thursday’s event, the artist handed out maps and pictures to her audience, shared stories and painted bright colors on a mud wall. She also encouraged her audience to speak out during her performance and voice their opinions on whether they liked it and what they understood of her art. 
“We want to imagine futures of solidarity, community and resistance,” she said. “Not just stay quiet at everything unfolding in front of them.”
Speaking about the experience of working in a place as richly-textured and cosmopolitan as Lahore, with its many iconic and historical buildings, Kyambi said: 
“When I entered for the first time to check the space [at Masjid Wazir Khan], it had a really light energy, and the rooftop is just perfect for my practice in this particular work, because it holds the scale but it’s also outdoors so the work can also keep on changing with the environment ... It’s wonderful to be near the mosque as well and I think it’s a really special part of town.”
PAF founder Zafar said the purpose of the biennale, like the ‘Decolonial Feminist Ecologies’ show arranged by the Pakistan Art Forum, was to promote local and lesser-known artists and bring them in conversation with international, globally acclaimed ones “to show the world how much talent we have here in Pakistan.”
Stephan Chow, a Singaporean artist whose work is featured at the Lahore Biennale, said the people of Lahore and Pakistan were very open to new ideas and art. 
“This is my second trip to Pakistan,” he said, “and I find the people of Pakistan to be very rich in culture, knowledge, and they embrace ideas very well.”


Saudi Film Festival returns for 11th edition next month

Saudi Film Festival returns for 11th edition next month
Updated 10 March 2025
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Saudi Film Festival returns for 11th edition next month

Saudi Film Festival returns for 11th edition next month

DHAHRAN: The highly anticipated Saudi Film Festival is set to return for its 11th edition from Apr. 17 to 23, with the King Abdulaziz Center for World Culture (Ithra) unveiling key details at a recent press conference.

Festival Director Ahmed Al-Mulla emphasized the festival’s significance as a platform for filmmakers. “The festival presents a diverse selection of films and programs that highlight successful production experiences in the film industry, allowing professionals and enthusiasts to engage and learn from these journeys,” he stated.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

A post shared by (@saudifilmfestival)

This year’s theme, “Cinema of Identity,” will explore how films shape and reflect individual, national, and cultural identities.

Organized by the Cinema Association in partnership with Ithra and supported by the Film Commission, the festival will feature 68 films from Saudi Arabia, the Gulf — including Iraq and Yemen — and beyond.

A major highlight this year is the honorary tribute to Ibrahim Al-Hasawi, a veteran Saudi actor with over three decades of experience in theater, television, and cinema. His notable works include the TV series “Tash Ma Tash” and “Bayni Wa Baynak,” as well as films such as Ithra’s “Hajjan,” “Zero Distance,” and the recent “Hobal.” 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

A post shared by Ithra | (@ithra)

This year’s lineup includes seven Saudi and Gulf feature films, 22 short fiction films, and seven documentaries, alongside 12 parallel screenings of Saudi productions. The festival will also host four panel discussions, four advanced masterclasses and three book-signing sessions for the Saudi Cinema Encyclopedia.

Once again, the red carpet will be rolled out, giving filmmakers, actors and industry professionals the chance to be there in-person to celebrate the achievements of the region’s growing film industry.

The festival will also include award ceremonies, where films across various categories will be recognized after a deliberation by jurors. All selected entries will be showcased at these cinemas, where festivalgoers can attend screenings and experience the films firsthand. The awards will be given out as the festival’s finale.

For the first time, the festival will utilize the cinema space at the neighboring Energy Exhibit to screen additional films, expanding beyond Ithra’s two existing cinema halls.

The plaza and library at Ithra will host ‘Meet the Expert’ one-on-one sessions and private screenings, offering filmmakers ample opportunities for personalized mentorship and feedback.

A key component of the festival is its production market, which will showcase 22 booths from various production entities, providing filmmakers with a platform to develop and present their work. And to network.

A curated selection of 12 short films from the Clermont-Ferrand International Short Film Festival will be featured.

Additionally, Japanese cinema will be in focus, marking 70 years of Saudi-Japan relations, with eight Japanese films, expert discussions, and the return of the Short Shorts Film Festival from Japan as a major collaborator this year.

The festival is also introducing different passes this time around, allowing attendees to tailor their experience. These can be purchased online through the Ithra website.

For those unable to attend in person, parts of the film festival will be streamed online.


Karen Wazen on hand as Valentino hosts theatrical show in Paris

Karen Wazen on hand as Valentino hosts theatrical show in Paris
Updated 10 March 2025
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Karen Wazen on hand as Valentino hosts theatrical show in Paris

Karen Wazen on hand as Valentino hosts theatrical show in Paris

PARIS: Valentino paraded high fashion inside public toilets in one of the season’s most provocative backdrops, especially for a house as classical as Valentino.

Lebanese influencer and eyewear designer Karen Wazen was on hand — decked out in an all-cream Valentino look, with polka dotted gloves to boot — as the likes of Chappell Roan, Parker Posey, Jared Leto and Barry Keoghan sat amid the crimson glow of the set. Palestinian Chilean singer Elyanna and Saudi Arabia-based Argentine model Georgina Rodriguez were also spotted in the audience, both wearing head-to-toe Valentino.

Lebanese influencer and eyewear designer Karen Wazen was on hand at the show. (Getty Images)

The meticulous recreation stayed true to the aesthetic of a communal toilet down to the tiling, soap dispensers, mirrors and endless rows of stalls, all bathed in an unsettling, almost seedy red light.

Partly inspired by David Lynch, the space set the tone for Alessandro Michele’s bold new vision. With a background in costume design, Michele infuses his collections with inspirations from theater and film, crafting narratives as much as he does garments.  

Michele often selects venues with deep historical or cultural significance — think palaces — so this public toilet setting was a clever subversion, even of his own signature style. The result? A show that explored the boundaries between public and private, intimacy and exposure, and the ever-blurred lines of identity in contemporary fashion.

Models emerged from toilet cubicles, some stopping to inspect their faces in the mirrors, blurring the line between personal and performative. (Getty Images)

Models emerged from toilet cubicles, some stopping to inspect their faces in the mirrors, blurring the line between personal and performative. The clothes were pure theatricality: caps, hoods, and dark shades concealing the face, while sheer nude tops exposed the body, a direct contrast between covering up and revealing.

Michele’s designs are characterized by a kaleidoscopic mix of times and cultures, blending elements from different historical periods to create a unique aesthetic. He considers himself an “art archaeologist,” exploring how adornment and embellishment have evolved over the centuries.

Michele’s designs are characterized by a kaleidoscopic mix of times and cultures. (Getty Images)

The audience buzzed with excitement. “He’s upending Valentino in the same way Demna did at Balenciaga,” one front-row guest remarked. The applause was loud, the reaction immediate. This wasn’t just a collection, it was a statement, disruptive and irreverent, pulling a classical house into new, unexpected territory.


Georgina Rodriguez dazzles front row at Elie Saab’s Paris Fashion Week show

Georgina Rodriguez dazzles front row at Elie Saab’s Paris Fashion Week show
Updated 09 March 2025
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Georgina Rodriguez dazzles front row at Elie Saab’s Paris Fashion Week show

Georgina Rodriguez dazzles front row at Elie Saab’s Paris Fashion Week show

DUBAI: Lebanese haute couture label Elie Saab’s Ready-to-Wear Fall/Winter 2025-2026 collection transported Paris Fashion Week to the world’s most exclusive mountain retreats, where relaxed glamour meets alpine allure.

With Georgina Rodriguez, Sofia Carson and Leighton Meester gracing the front row, the show unfolded as a celebration of opulent textures, burnished hues, and striking silhouettes — seamlessly transitioning from the polished salons of the city to the snow-dusted slopes.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

A post shared by ELIE SAAB (@eliesaabworld)

Saudi-based Argentinian model Rodriguez wore a pristine white outfit that took inspiration from Elie Saab’s alpine theme. The ensemble featured a luxurious, textured top adorned with delicate feather-like details, adding a touch of avant-garde flair. This was paired with tailored white trousers that complemented her silhouette.

Carson — the US actress and singer known for films such as “Purple Hearts” and “Descendants” — graced the event in a sophisticated black and white checked tweed dress by Elie Saab. The ensemble was cinched at the waist with a black belt, complemented by black leather gloves and a matching bag. She completed her elegant look with a veiled black hat.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

A post shared by Sofia Carson (@sofiacarson)

Meester debuted a fiery new look at the show, sporting a ginger hair transformation. At the show, Meester was seated directly next to former “Gossip Girl” co-star Kelly Rutherford, who played Lily van der Woodsen. Her dress featured a dynamic pattern, blending rich colors that complemented her fresh hair transformation.

On the runway, a rich palette of midnight black, powder white, pine green, deep burgundy, and chocolate brown enveloped the collection in warmth and sophistication. Voluminous fur coats draped effortlessly over butter-soft leggings, while embroidered and sleek tube midi-skirts found harmony with monochrome knits.

The classic tuxedo took on freshness with cropped trousers, pairing flawlessly with an embellished sixties-style jacket, a statement piece equally at home with fitted midi-skirts.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

A post shared by ELIE SAAB (@eliesaabworld)

The snow-capped skyline reimagined itself as a recurring motif — stitched into cashmere sweaters, sequinned across layered dresses, and woven through sport-luxe essentials like a figure-hugging zipped jumpsuit and a striking yellow parka. Structured silk corsets cascaded into mermaid lace, while scalloped tiers of beaded floor-length gowns shimmered like moonlit glacial waves.

Accessories completed the apres-ski look: Alaskan hats, visor sunshades, and chunky fur-trimmed snow boots enhanced the alpine spirit, while closed-toe leather and satin pumps offered effortless elegance. Sumptuous fur bags in various sizes added a final touch of indulgence, alongside the latest additions to the Wave handbag collection.


Pakistani sister duo rebrands grandfather’s 50-year-old leather bag business, makes it online success

Pakistani sister duo rebrands grandfather’s 50-year-old leather bag business, makes it online success
Updated 09 March 2025
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Pakistani sister duo rebrands grandfather’s 50-year-old leather bag business, makes it online success

Pakistani sister duo rebrands grandfather’s 50-year-old leather bag business, makes it online success
  • Marium and Sakina Hussain manage most domains of the leather goods business they have named after their grandfather
  • Offering a range of products, the sister duo now plans to not only launch a physical outlet, but expand it beyond Pakistan

KARACHI: Turab Ali Ismail Ji Munniwala, a skilled craftsman, set up a small leather retail shop in Pakistan’s commercial capital of Karachi in 1975 and put his heart and soul into making leather bags of various shapes and sizes. His son, Aqeel Hussain, took over the business ten years later and focused it on corporate giveaways, but after the passing of Munniwala more than three decades later, it became difficult for Hussain to run the business alone.

In conservative Pakistan, people often expect a male heir like Hussain, now in his 60s, to carry forward the family’s business and legacy, but Hussain had no son and his daughters, Marium and Sakina, determined to honor their late grandfather’s 50-year legacy, took it upon themselves and amazed many by making Munniwala’s leather bag business an online success.

The sister duo, 32-year-old Marium and 25-year-old Sakina who both had full-time careers as a graphic designer and a corporate lawyer respectively, set out to take their grandfather’s business online in February 2022. Today, their venture, named ‘Turab’ after Munniwala, is breathing new life into a legacy that could have faded away without them.

“It wasn’t a planned thing initially, but it just sort of came into being that ‘okay, who’s going to help Abbu [our father]?’,” Sakina recalled how Turab came to life.

“When we basically started to grow up, it was always a thing that who is going to take this business forward because we don’t have a brother. Living in a desi [local] household, it’s always a thing that businesses are being led forward by sons in a family.”

Sakina Hussain, co-funder of Turab, is holding a tote bag at her home in Karachi, Pakistan, on March 6, 2025. (AN photo)

Born and raised in Karachi, the sisters belong to the Dawoodi Bohra community. The family’s shop in Saddar still exists, with their grandfather’s working table still intact. Two of the workers, who started out with their father years ago, still work at the shop and mainly look after the production side of affairs with Hussain.

“People nowadays kill to buy pure leather products, but we don’t have the kind of market for pure leather products here. The players that we have in the market are really expensive for the masses to buy,” Sakina told Arab News.

“And that’s kind of where the idea of Turab came into being. We wanted to create something that’s not only good quality leather but also really affordable.”

Both Marium and Sakina have since been pushing their family legacy forward with a fresh, modern touch.

“As far as the designing is concerned, that’s where we come in. We decided to make the most modern and minimal products that you don’t find in the market,” Marium told Arab News.

Marium Hussain (left) takes picture as Sakina Hussain poses for a picture with a Turab bag at their house in Karachi, Pakistan, on March 6, 2025. (AN photo)

Turab offers a range of leather products including tote bags, cross body bags, duffel bags, wallets, travel organizers and laptop sleeves in shades of red, green, orange, yellow and blue.

“Being two women, who like to carry good bags [and] funky colors, the inspiration comes from within. All the players in the market that we have for pure leather, they typically go around the shades of browns [and] blacks,” Sakina said.

“And while that’s a big classic, the youth of today really resonates with vibrant and funky colors and that’s something that we’ve tried to incorporate in our brand.”

As co-founders, the two sisters manage most domains of the online business themselves. The branding is taken care of by Marium.

She also does product photography herself, with Sakina modelling for it.

“It’s a home-based setup [and] that’s how it started. We started making all of our products at the shop and then we brought it home. We converted our dada’s [grandfather’s] room basically into the Turab room and that’s where we store all of our products,” Marium said.

Marium Hussain, co-funder of Turab, stands outside her retail shop in Karachi, Pakistan, on March 6, 2025. (AN photo)

The sisters have been to pop-ups and exhibitions, which they say has really helped elevate their business.

But it has its challenges too.

“When people see two women behind the table, specifically men, they come and try to question the knowledge that we have about leather [and] about the product we are selling,” Sakina shared.

“They probably think that we don’t know enough or not more than them.”

Marium Hussain (right), Sakina Hussain (left), and their father pick leather at their retail shop in Karachi, Pakistan, on March 6, 2025. (AN photo)

Marium, on the other hand, was initially not taken seriously by the artisans at her grandfather’s shop.

“I often go to [our shop in] Saddar to discuss the production side and the karigars [artisans] often don’t take me very seriously. They give me that look that, ‘we will talk to your dad. He knows, you don’t know’,” she said, adding that she hasn’t see any women anywhere near the leather goods production side at least.

However, her father vouched for the skill of both sisters to run the business.

“They catch everything very quickly,” he said. “The leather business is a bit technical. It took them about a year and a half [to learn], but now they can feel everything and tell you what is leather and what is not.”

The two sisters have carved a niche and the future looks promising as they plan to launch a physical outlet and make Turab a “household name” not just in Pakistan, but beyond.

“From packing orders every two days to one week, now packing every single day [and] multiple orders in a day, we have come a long way. And just going forward,” Marium said.

“We got a couple of orders from Dubai. Right now, I am talking to someone in Canada [and] the USA.”


Lebanese model Nour Arida reveals new looks at Paris Fashion Week

Lebanese model Nour Arida reveals new looks at Paris Fashion Week
Updated 08 March 2025
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Lebanese model Nour Arida reveals new looks at Paris Fashion Week

Lebanese model Nour Arida reveals new looks at Paris Fashion Week

DUBAI: Lebanese model Nour Arida has been making waves at Paris Fashion Week, showcasing a fresh fair-haired bob while attending some of the season’s most anticipated shows.

The model has been spotted at various runway events, including Nina Ricci, Chloe, and Rabanne.

For the Chloe show, Arida embraced a luxurious, vintage-inspired aesthetic in a floor-length tiger-print fur coat layered over a black jumpsuit. She accessorized with bold gold jewelry, a structured red handbag and burgundy stiletto heels.

She turned heads in her Rabanne look, stepping out in a striking metallic mini dress made of reflective mirror-like panels connected by metal hardware. The futuristic geometric design featured bold cutouts on the back. She completed the look with a shimmering silver chain-link bag and matching platform heels.

Arida opted for a glamorous yet playful take on classic Parisian style for the Nina Ricci show. She wore a strapless black polka-dot mini dress with ruched detailing, paired with sheer black tights. A matching polka-dot scarf wrapped around her head, adding a vintage Hollywood touch, while black cat-eye sunglasses and red lipstick completed the ensemble.

Arida was not the only Arab fashion star making waves in Paris. Another standout moment came from Gigi Hadid, who commanded the runway at Schiaparelli.

The US Dutch Palestinian model opened the Schiaparelli show on Thursday wearing a black wool crepe jacket featuring an oversized tonal shearling collar. Cinched at the waist, the jacket was accentuated by belt straps adorned with Schiaparelli’s signature keyhole bijou in gold metal.

The supermodel paired the statement jacket with matching high-waisted cowboy pants and accessorized with the brand’s trompe l’oeil earrings in hammered golden brass, shaped like an alligator’s tail.