The delights of small-town cricket in southwest France

This week I am in southwest France, visiting friends who spend their summer in the valley of the Lot River. It flows westwards in a tortuous fashion for 485 km, joining the Garonne, which then flows northwest to the city of Bordeaux and on to the Atlantic Ocean.

It is my first visit to this region, which is famous for wine production. I am aware that cricket is played in France, having taken a team to play near Versailles for a number of years around the turn of the 21st century.

On this basis, it seemed a reasonable assumption that cricket would be played in the southwest. A little research revealed the existence of an Association des Clubs de Cricket du Sud-Ouest, founded in 1992. It comprises 10 clubs: Bordeaux-Giscours, Catus, Damazan, Eymet, Saint Aulaye, Eyliac, two Toulouse clubs and, in 2024, Nimes and Montpellier rejoined. This means the ACCSO covers a large area, with attendant transport costs.

On a very well-organized website, committee members’ contact details are displayed. My introductory email was answered by the secretary, Hugues “Hui” Scheers, who informed me his club, Catus CC, would host a cup semifinal on Aug. 25. Catus was only a half-hour drive away from my base, and my traveling companions and hosts decided to join the adventure.

Catus is a small village with a population just short of 1,000. The cricket club was formed in 2004 and received a boost in 2007 when the mayor granted the use of an area of flat land near Lac Vert, along with financial support for a synthetic pitch.

On arrival, a picturesque scene unfolded. The ground is part of a sports and leisure complex, backed by a hill topped with imposing oak and chestnut trees. At the other end is a small river, which posed a problem because the ball was often hit into it until a local rule was introduced that stipulates bowling can only take place from the hill end.

Catus was facing Toulouse CC Wolves. Both teams contain many South Asian players, mainly Indians in the case of Toulouse. Catus has a more varied composition. Amongst its ranks are Afghanistan refugees, who were very welcoming and keen to talk cricket, about which they are passionate. This was evidenced by the fact they travelled over 3.5 hours from their base, close to the Spanish border.

The name of another team member, Sri Lankan Amal Saminda Silva, will be familiar to cricketing aficionados as his older namesake represented his country. This Amal Silva, who has French citizenship by virtue of marriage, is also an accomplished and elegant player, scoring 102 out of his team’s 302. This total is a record in the competition and the highest scored at Catus cricket club.

Two Afghans, Badshah Khan and Jamal Ziauddin scored 62 and 46, respectively. There was much raw talent on display. The top order of the Toulouse Wolves team made a spirited start in their pursuit of a formidable target but could not keep up the momentum, being dismissed for 159 in 27.2 overs.

The victory puts Catus CC in the final of the Blevins Franks Cup, so named after a sponsoring company which specializes in financial services for people moving to — and living in — France. Catus has also reached the final of the BF League.

This follows a stellar season in 2023 when they reached the finals of both cup competitions and topped the league. The cup competitions are in T20 and 35 overs format, the former being introduced in 2022. The Ligue is 40 overs but may be reduced to accommodate travel time.

As ever in club cricket, a handful of people manage clubs and leagues. At Catus, Scheers told me that he was mowing the outfield at 8 a.m. before setting up electrical connections to computers and the mounted camera which streams the match. Club funds are tight and there is a reliance on donations at both club and ACCSO levels.

As if match day preparations and management were not enough, cricket clubs in France were landed with a new situation in 2023. Association France Cricket, the governing body, was accused of simulating women’s matches to obtain financial aid from the International Cricket Council. It was also accused by players, clubs and recent FC members of lacking transparency about how those funds were used.

The scandal has led to the disbandment of the women’s national team — unfortunate timing given that cricket is to become an Olympic sport in 2028. This means the sport will receive “high level” status in France and the national governing body becomes eligible to apply for more public funding.

The scandal has also led to ACCSO members deciding not to affiliate with FC in 2024. In turn, this means competitions organized by ACCSO are open solely to clubs which have either affiliated to an “association sportive omnisports” or taken out insurance cover mandated by the French Code du Sport with a commercial insurer.

ACCSO members report that the on-going situation with FC is “fluid”. It must be galling for local clubs with limited funds to learn of the financial irregularities and phantom matches generated by their national governing body.

Amid the welter of franchise cricket now in existence and the riches which it has created for players, team owners, advertisers and other stakeholders, it is easy to forget that grass roots cricket is played and organized by people who love the game. They do not do it for money and they can be found in unexpected places. One such place is Catus, where a cricketing home has been provided for people whose life’s journey has, at times, been bleak.