Ahmed Mater: The Saudi artist documenting a kingdom in flux

Special Ahmed Mater: The Saudi artist documenting a kingdom in flux
Ahmed Mater at the opening of ‘Chronicles.’ (AN photo)
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Updated 18 July 2024
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Ahmed Mater: The Saudi artist documenting a kingdom in flux

Ahmed Mater: The Saudi artist documenting a kingdom in flux
  • Christie’s London is hosting ‘Ahmed Mater: Chronicles,’ a retrospective collection of his work, until Aug. 22
  • The exhibition highlights major milestones of the physician-turned-artist’s career

LONDON: Using metal filings, X-rays adorned with calligraphy, and a grandiose mihrab transformed into a body scanner, leading Saudi artist Ahmed Mater is documenting a kingdom undergoing a swift process of change.

Born in Tabuk in 1979, Mater grew up in Abha in southwestern Saudi Arabia, close to the militarized Yemeni border, at a time of immense social change in the region.

The first presentation of his art outside the Kingdom came in 2005 at an exhibition hosted by the British Museum in London. Just over a decade later, he became the first artist to host a solo exhibition in the US, with “Symbolic Cities: The Work of Ahmed Mater” in 2016.

Now, the 44-year-old has returned to England with the exhibition “Ahmed Mater: Chronicles,” hosted by Christie’s London until Aug. 22. The mid-career retrospective collection features more than 100 of his works, and promises to highlight the major milestones of his career.




Ahmed Mater at the opening of ‘Chronicles.’ (AN photo)

“It’s very amazing and extraordinary for me to be back and connect again with the audience here in London after 2005, and now, maybe, with more artwork to share and 20 years of experimental work,” Mater told Arab News on the exhibition’s opening day.

“So, it’s something that, really, I want the audience to share all of this — the experiment and the time and sharing all of this journey together.”

Despite being heavily influenced by his mother’s work as an Asiri calligrapher and painter, and art being the “passion and DNA” of his childhood, Mater began his professional life working in medicine.




Mater first encountered city life as a teenager in Abha. (AN photo) 

“At that time, there was no … you have to do something, especially in Saudi Arabia, there was no school of art,” he said.

“So, medicine was very close to me. I studied a more human science; that’s very close to me.”

Despite “building a lot of things and experiences” during his work as a physician, Mater returned to his roots in art “because it became the only voice that I could continue with.”




The artist began experimenting with X-rays during his medical studies. (AN photo)

The physician-turned-artist described the difference between his two careers as one of “subjectivity versus objectivity.”

Mater’s oeuvre, from the satirical to the striking, details the changes, big and small, in a kingdom undergoing unprecedented social, religious and economic transformation.

“I think it’s a kind of synergistic study of all of the artwork together,” he said. “When you are an artist, you are also a philosopher, you are a thinker, and all of these events together shape our generation at a time, our societies.

“I was really fascinated by studying a community — about urban change surrounding me. Maybe I take this from medicine, maybe I take it from the art, or maybe I take it from my transition from the village to the city.”

In the photograph “Hajj Season” (2015), which is part of his “Desert of Pharan” collection documenting change in Makkah, masses of pilgrims wait patiently in a gated courtyard. Behind them, KFC and Burger King restaurants can be seen.

“Stand in the Pathway and See” (2012) shows a narrow alleyway bisecting dilapidated buildings, part of an old settlement that was soon to be demolished to make way for new hotels. A young boy sits in the shadows amid the waste and graffiti. The alley appears to be illuminated by the fierce glow of Makkah’s Clock Tower, which looms ominously, or as a figurative light at the end of the tunnel, over the old city.

The dual meaning of the photograph is a hallmark of Mater’s work. In “Nature Morte” (2012) and “Room With a View ($3,000/night)” (2012), Mater again reveals some of the peculiarities of Makkah’s transformation through simple photographs.




Left to right: ‘Nature Morte,’ ‘Stand in the Pathway and See’ and ‘Room With a View ($3,000/night).’ (AN photo)

In both, the Kaaba and masses of pilgrims are seen at a low angle through the windows of a luxury hotel room, replete with a bowl of decorative fruit and cable TV. Viewers will inevitably be divided in their reaction.

Mater’s status as a passive spectator taking the photographs reinforces his self-described role as a documenter of change, and is part of the subtlety that typifies much of his work.

For other pieces he takes a more direct approach, however. Viewers are met with loud beeping and flashing red lights in his simple but ingenious “Boundary” (2024), for example. The artist combines a mihrab, a prayer niche from the interior of a mosque, with a body scanner; the result is a striking summation of modern-day security fears and the commercialization of religion.




Viewers should expect a surprise with Mater’s modern mihrab. (AN photo)

Many of Mater’s works explore the theme of the individual sublimating to the group, which emerges as a distinct entity. This is epitomized in “Magnetism IV” (2012), a diminutive model of the Kaaba surrounded by perfectly arranged iron filings, representing a swirling mass of pilgrims.




The artist depicts the magnetism of Islam’s holiest site. (AN photo)

To create a similar effect in a photograph, Mater used a long exposure to capture the Kaaba at the height of Hajj in “Tawaf” (2013), an image in which the resulting movement of pilgrims resembles a hurricane around the holiest site in Islam.

The artist admits that the theme might be an unconscious effect of his Islamic upbringing.




A selection from Mater’s ‘Magnetism’ series. (AN photo)

“I think it’s something that is unconsciously done by an artist in their practices,” he said. “You know, sometimes I didn’t pay full attention but after I did my artwork, I noticed. I noticed these kind of things. But maybe spirituality has this feeling.

“So, I come from a religious background and this has, maybe, shaped a lot of my understanding. It’s given me a lot of imagination. You know, religion is part of this big imagination.”




Long exposure creates a hurricane effect at the height of Hajj. (AN photo)

For Mater, 1938 might have been the most important year in the Kingdom’s history. Oil was struck on March 3 that year at the Dammam No. 7 well, and the liquid gold that began to flow would soon begin to finance the Kingdom’s transformation.

Again juxtaposing old and new, traditional and modern, in “Lightning Land” (2017) the artist captures a stunning shot of lightning arcing toward the ground, with a disused Bedouin tent in the foreground and oil machinery in the background.




Mater’s ‘Lightning Land’ highlights the tensions between old and new in Saudi Arabia. (AN photo)

“Evolution of Man” (1979) is Mater’s most morbid work. A horizontal collage begins with a front-on X-ray shot of a man holding a gun to his own head. The next shots morph as a square shape begins to form. The final image is a gas pump, with the nozzle resembling the gun featured in the first image.

The former physician’s prognosis of the Kingdom’s arts scene takes a more positive path, however. Mater believes that cooperation between the public and private sectors is the key to further unleashing Saudi Arabia’s burgeoning cultural industries.

A “big, big awakening of art and culture” is taking place in the Kingdom, he said. Mater himself is part of this public-private synthesis, and one of five leading artists commissioned by Wadi AlFann (Valley of the Arts) in AlUla to produce a large-scale installation in the desert sands.

The result is Ashab Al-Lal, a mighty but unintrusive oculus that will harness light refraction, in a homage to the scientists of the Islamic golden age. Wadi AlFann will start welcoming visitors in 2025.




A model of Mater’s Ashab Al-Lal installation was unveiled at Christie’s. (AN photo) 

“I think now it’s a very optimistic generation; there is a lot of movement,” Mater said.

“So, it’s from both the private body and the public body, together shaping a new future. That’s what I’ve noticed today.”


Sotheby’s ‘Origins’ auction in Diriyah achieves more than $17 million in sales, with Saudi artists shining

Sotheby’s ‘Origins’ auction in Diriyah achieves more than $17 million in sales, with Saudi artists shining
Updated 09 February 2025
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Sotheby’s ‘Origins’ auction in Diriyah achieves more than $17 million in sales, with Saudi artists shining

Sotheby’s ‘Origins’ auction in Diriyah achieves more than $17 million in sales, with Saudi artists shining

RIYADH: Sotheby’s inaugural auction in Saudi Arabia, titled “Origins,” concluded on Saturday with a total of $17,283,840 in sales in the fine art and luxury categories.

The historic event at Diriyah’s Bujairi Terrace was a turning point for the Kingdom’s art and luxury scene, with Saudi artists garnering significant attention.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

A post shared by (@visitdiriyah)

Jerry Inzerillo, CEO of Diriyah Company, highlighted the significance of the collaboration between Diriyah and Sotheby’s.

“A few years ago, we decided that Sotheby’s, as a 277-year-old brand, had to match up with Diriyah because the value systems were the same, and you can’t be Sotheby’s without being in Diriyah,” he said in his opening remarks.

The modern and contemporary art section featured works by Saudi artists that collectively realized $1.1 million in sales.

Abdulhalim Radwi’s vibrant 1984 market scene set a personal auction record, selling for $264,000 after fierce bidding online and in the room. (Supplied)

Mohammed Al-Saleem’s untitled work, sourced directly from the artist’s daughter, led the Saudi work on offer.

The piece, blending abstract Arabic calligraphy with Al-Saleem’s vision of Saudi landscapes, sparked intense competition among four bidders before selling for a remarkable $660,000 — triple its pre-sale estimate.

Abdulhalim Radwi’s vibrant 1984 market scene set a personal auction record, selling for $264,000 after fierce bidding online and in the room.

Ahmed Mater’s “Illumination Diptych (Makkiah Tale)” exceeded expectations at $102,000.

Mater, one of Saudi Arabia’s most acclaimed contemporary artists, is internationally celebrated, with works displayed by institutions throughout the Arab world, the UK and the US.

Rene Magritte’s “L’Etat de veille” sold for $1.2 million. (Supplied)

Maha Malluh’s “Magadeer” (from the “Food for Thought” series), inspired by the cultural and spiritual heritage of the Najd area of the Kingdom, sold for $84,000, also surpassing its estimate.

When it came to international works, surrealist Rene Magritte’s “L’Etat de veille” sold for $1.2 million and Fernando Botero’s “Society Woman” made $1 million. Meanwhile, Banksy’s “Subject to Availability” from his series of vandalised oils, sold for $1.2 million.

The luxury segment dazzled collectors with an extraordinary selection of rare items, such as a Patek Philippe Grand Complication watch, a Cartier diamond necklace from the Art Deco era, and a limited-edition Hermes Birkin bag crafted from exotic leather.

Collectors from 45 countries took part in the auction, demonstrating its global appeal, while nearly one-third of the lots were bought by buyers from Saudi Arabia.

Additionally, more than 30 percent of participants were under the age of 40, reflecting the growing interest in art and luxury items among younger generations.

 


Meet your sole mate at Sneaker Con in Riyadh

Sneaker Con features more than 150 brands showcasing curated collections of rare sneakers, fashion items, and accessories.
Sneaker Con features more than 150 brands showcasing curated collections of rare sneakers, fashion items, and accessories.
Updated 08 February 2025
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Meet your sole mate at Sneaker Con in Riyadh

Sneaker Con features more than 150 brands showcasing curated collections of rare sneakers, fashion items, and accessories.
  • Visitors can buy, sell, and trade rare and limited-edition sneakers

RIYADH: Sneaker Con in Riyadh has opened its doors to enthusiasts and collectors, offering a platform to buy, sell, and trade rare and limited-edition items as part of Riyadh Season.

Billed as “The Greatest Sneaker Show on Earth,” Sneaker Con is one of the world’s largest sneaker conventions, which has previously been held in cities across North America, Europe, and Asia. Its Riyadh edition — the first in Saudi Arabia — runs until Feb. 19 at ANB Arena.

A pair of signed sneakers by basketball player Michael Jordan, featured at Sneaker Con Riyadh. (AN photo by Hajar AlQusayer)

The event provides visitors with the opportunity to engage with industry experts and meet influencers in the sneaker community.

One visitor, Fares Indejani, highlighted the growing sneaker culture in Riyadh, pointing out that sneakers have become an integral part of personal style and expression. He told Arab News about the impact of the event on the local sneaker community.

These sneaker communities are micro-communities that are often isolated and don’t really have a dedicated space. But this event changes that … you can just walk in and meet others like you.

Fares Indejani, Sneaker enthusiast

“These sneaker communities are micro-communities that are often isolated and don’t really have a dedicated space,” he said. “But this event changes that … you can just walk in and meet others like you.

Visitors engaging with various shops and exploring exclusive sneakers at Sneaker Con Riyadh. (Supplied)

“You get an idea of what direction we’re heading toward, and that’s valuable knowledge for investors and business owners,” he added. “Really knowing what kind of communities are popping up, seeing how loud and real they are, and recognizing that they exist, have a voice, and are moving, is crucial.”

Abdulmohsen Al-Ahmari, another visitor, said the event provides an opportunity to see sneakers that are not typically available.

“Making connections at Sneaker Con and getting to know people helps me later,” he said.

Chase Young, a sneaker trader and founder of Culture Kicks, said: “There are people with crazy pairs of shoes and a lot of different collectors’ items here, and very high-end shoes, so (the market) is definitely big here.”

Sneaker Con features more than 150 brands showcasing curated collections of rare sneakers, fashion items, and accessories.

 


Angelina Jolie stuns in Elie Saab at Critics’ Choice Awards

Angelina Jolie stuns in Elie Saab at Critics’ Choice Awards
Updated 08 February 2025
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Angelina Jolie stuns in Elie Saab at Critics’ Choice Awards

Angelina Jolie stuns in Elie Saab at Critics’ Choice Awards

DUBAI: Hollywood icon Angelina Jolie turned heads on Friday at the Critics’ Choice Awards, wearing a gown by renowned Lebanese designer Elie Saab.

The dress was from the couturier’s spring/summer 2025 collection. It featured intricate lace detailing throughout, with a flowing, floor-length silhouette. The ensemble had delicate short sleeves, a cinched waistline that highlighted her figure, and a sheer overlay.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

A post shared by ELIE SAAB (@eliesaabworld)

Jolie completed the look with a bold red lip that contrasted with the gown’s soft tones, and styled her hair in loose, effortless waves.

Demi Moore won best actress at the event, confirming her status as favorite for the Oscars.

Moore’s horror film “The Substance” won best original screenplay at the glitzy Los Angeles gala, and critics crowned “Anora” as the year’s best picture.

Moore’s triumph followed her victory at the Golden Globes in January, and puts her on track to cap a remarkable career renaissance at next month’s Oscars.

“This has been such a wild ride,” said Moore, 62, who made a string of hit films in the 1990s, but came to be known as much for her love life as her acting in subsequent decades.

That changed with “The Substance,” a body-horror flick about an aging celebrity who injects a serum to temporarily live again in her younger body.

Nodding to the film’s frequently bloody and horrifying depictions of warped bodies, Moore thanked critics for rewarding “this genre of horror films, that are overlooked and not seen for the profundity that they can hold.”


Crown Prince Hussein of Jordan shares photo of King Abdullah with granddaughter Iman

Crown Prince Hussein of Jordan shares photo of King Abdullah with granddaughter Iman
Updated 08 February 2025
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Crown Prince Hussein of Jordan shares photo of King Abdullah with granddaughter Iman

Crown Prince Hussein of Jordan shares photo of King Abdullah with granddaughter Iman

DUBAI: Jordan’s Crown Prince Hussein bin Abdullah took to Instagram on Saturday to share a touching photo of his father, King Abdullah, playing with his granddaughter Princess Iman.

The little girl is the daughter of Prince Hussein and his wife, Saudi Princess Rajwa Al-Hussein.

In the picture, the king is seen warmly interacting with Iman as she holds his cheeks.

“Iman with the dearest grandpa,” Prince Hussein captioned the post.

Rajwa and Hussein welcomed their first child on August 3, 2024. 

At her birth, the king posted a tribute to his granddaughter on social media. Translated from Arabic, the post reads: “I thank God for giving us our first granddaughter Iman bint Hussein. I congratulate beloved Hussein and Rajwa for their newborn.

“We ask God to raise her well and protect her for her parents. You have lit up our family,” he added. 


Mrs Keepa’s latest collection ‘La Boite’ is statement on breaking free

Mrs Keepa’s latest collection ‘La Boite’ is statement on breaking free
Updated 08 February 2025
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Mrs Keepa’s latest collection ‘La Boite’ is statement on breaking free

Mrs Keepa’s latest collection ‘La Boite’ is statement on breaking free

DUBAI: Mariam Yehia is the ultimate nonconformist. As the founder and creative force behind Dubai-based fashion house Mrs Keepa, her label is not defined by traditional fashion norms. Known for bold silhouettes, sculptural tailoring and avant-garde sensibility, Mrs Keepa thrives on individuality and reinvention. Yehia’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection, La Boite, takes this ethos even further — challenging stereotypes, embracing duality, and redefining fashion as a personal and cultural narrative.

At its core, La Boite, which translates to “The Box,” is a direct commentary on the limitations imposed by rigid categorization. “People are always trying to fit fashion, people and even cultures into predefined boxes,” Yehia said. “This collection is about breaking free from that.” Through structured silhouettes, boxy tailoring and unexpected design transformations, the collection encourages wearers to reinterpret fashion on their own terms. Each look can be styled in multiple ways — chic, casual or bold —offering a fluidity that reflects the modern woman’s ever-changing identity.

(Supplied)

Yehia pulls out a black boxy short dress with multiple long pieces of fabric hanging from the padded shoulders and explains how the dress can be worn depending on the wearer’s mood. A client can wear the dress exactly as is — loose and androgynous — or she can tie the fabric and cinch the waist, or even layer it over a skirt and pair it with sneakers. “One outfit can have many different personas,” said Yehia. The same philosophy translates to her more sporty pieces featuring mesh and kimono sleeves — wear it wrapped around as a mini dress, or leave it open and pair it with leggings. Each ensemble gives you more than just a single look. A series of mini dresses with a scarf-like attachment will sell fast, as will the jumpsuit that can be deconstructed and worn as ultra-wide pants.

(Supplied)

While every garment was impactful, the star pieces were undoubtedly the brocade ones. A dramatic thigh-length jacket, shorts and trousers in luxurious brocade were given the sporty treatment through contrast piping —  highlighting the polarities of us as individuals. Elsewhere, denim garments engineered to perfection catch the eye. An edgy denim jacket retains a cinched look even when unbuttoned, while jeans with the waistband folded over featuring sparkling embellishments add a maximalist touch. Loyal Mrs Keepa clients will also be drawn to a red crepe number with exaggerated shoulders and high low layering of fabric, which can be both modest and sexy.  Potential buyers might also enjoy her experimentation with feminine lace — a rarity for Yehia.

(Supplied)

Mrs Keepa has always thrived on storytelling through fashion, and La Boite is no exception. Beyond its sharp tailoring and experimental silhouettes, the collection holds a deeper meaning: A rejection of stereotypes, particularly those imposed on Middle Eastern people. “We’ve been framed for too long. For years, global fashion dictated that for a designer to be successful, they had to be recognized internationally first. But why? Why can’t we build a strong foundation in our own region first, before expanding outward?” She speaks of the diversity of designs within the region itself and of the uniqueness of each Arab designer, whether it is refined tailoring, cool streetwear, maximalist silhouettes or modest fashion. “Despite this diversity, we are still stereotyped. This collection challenges the rigid perceptions that frame the Middle East as a monolithic culture, often diminishing its significance.”

Yehia delivers a collection that is both metaphorically and literally transformative. Whether through adjustable silhouettes, unexpected layering or garments that can be styled in various ways, each piece invites the wearer to reshape, reinterpret and make it their own. “Fashion isn’t just about clothing — it’s about identity, emotion and the freedom to express yourself beyond predefined labels,” Yehia said. La Boite is an invitation to step outside the box — on your own terms.