Ahmed Mater: The Saudi artist documenting a kingdom in flux

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Updated 18 July 2024
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Ahmed Mater: The Saudi artist documenting a kingdom in flux

Ahmed Mater: The Saudi artist documenting a kingdom in flux
  • Christie’s London is hosting ‘Ahmed Mater: Chronicles,’ a retrospective collection of his work, until Aug. 22
  • The exhibition highlights major milestones of the physician-turned-artist’s career

LONDON: Using metal filings, X-rays adorned with calligraphy, and a grandiose mihrab transformed into a body scanner, leading Saudi artist Ahmed Mater is documenting a kingdom undergoing a swift process of change.

Born in Tabuk in 1979, Mater grew up in Abha in southwestern Saudi Arabia, close to the militarized Yemeni border, at a time of immense social change in the region.

The first presentation of his art outside the Kingdom came in 2005 at an exhibition hosted by the British Museum in London. Just over a decade later, he became the first artist to host a solo exhibition in the US, with “Symbolic Cities: The Work of Ahmed Mater” in 2016.

Now, the 44-year-old has returned to England with the exhibition “Ahmed Mater: Chronicles,” hosted by Christie’s London until Aug. 22. The mid-career retrospective collection features more than 100 of his works, and promises to highlight the major milestones of his career.




Ahmed Mater at the opening of ‘Chronicles.’ (AN photo)

“It’s very amazing and extraordinary for me to be back and connect again with the audience here in London after 2005, and now, maybe, with more artwork to share and 20 years of experimental work,” Mater told Arab News on the exhibition’s opening day.

“So, it’s something that, really, I want the audience to share all of this — the experiment and the time and sharing all of this journey together.”

Despite being heavily influenced by his mother’s work as an Asiri calligrapher and painter, and art being the “passion and DNA” of his childhood, Mater began his professional life working in medicine.




Mater first encountered city life as a teenager in Abha. (AN photo) 

“At that time, there was no … you have to do something, especially in Saudi Arabia, there was no school of art,” he said.

“So, medicine was very close to me. I studied a more human science; that’s very close to me.”

Despite “building a lot of things and experiences” during his work as a physician, Mater returned to his roots in art “because it became the only voice that I could continue with.”




The artist began experimenting with X-rays during his medical studies. (AN photo)

The physician-turned-artist described the difference between his two careers as one of “subjectivity versus objectivity.”

Mater’s oeuvre, from the satirical to the striking, details the changes, big and small, in a kingdom undergoing unprecedented social, religious and economic transformation.

“I think it’s a kind of synergistic study of all of the artwork together,” he said. “When you are an artist, you are also a philosopher, you are a thinker, and all of these events together shape our generation at a time, our societies.

“I was really fascinated by studying a community — about urban change surrounding me. Maybe I take this from medicine, maybe I take it from the art, or maybe I take it from my transition from the village to the city.”

In the photograph “Hajj Season” (2015), which is part of his “Desert of Pharan” collection documenting change in Makkah, masses of pilgrims wait patiently in a gated courtyard. Behind them, KFC and Burger King restaurants can be seen.

“Stand in the Pathway and See” (2012) shows a narrow alleyway bisecting dilapidated buildings, part of an old settlement that was soon to be demolished to make way for new hotels. A young boy sits in the shadows amid the waste and graffiti. The alley appears to be illuminated by the fierce glow of Makkah’s Clock Tower, which looms ominously, or as a figurative light at the end of the tunnel, over the old city.

The dual meaning of the photograph is a hallmark of Mater’s work. In “Nature Morte” (2012) and “Room With a View ($3,000/night)” (2012), Mater again reveals some of the peculiarities of Makkah’s transformation through simple photographs.




Left to right: ‘Nature Morte,’ ‘Stand in the Pathway and See’ and ‘Room With a View ($3,000/night).’ (AN photo)

In both, the Kaaba and masses of pilgrims are seen at a low angle through the windows of a luxury hotel room, replete with a bowl of decorative fruit and cable TV. Viewers will inevitably be divided in their reaction.

Mater’s status as a passive spectator taking the photographs reinforces his self-described role as a documenter of change, and is part of the subtlety that typifies much of his work.

For other pieces he takes a more direct approach, however. Viewers are met with loud beeping and flashing red lights in his simple but ingenious “Boundary” (2024), for example. The artist combines a mihrab, a prayer niche from the interior of a mosque, with a body scanner; the result is a striking summation of modern-day security fears and the commercialization of religion.




Viewers should expect a surprise with Mater’s modern mihrab. (AN photo)

Many of Mater’s works explore the theme of the individual sublimating to the group, which emerges as a distinct entity. This is epitomized in “Magnetism IV” (2012), a diminutive model of the Kaaba surrounded by perfectly arranged iron filings, representing a swirling mass of pilgrims.




The artist depicts the magnetism of Islam’s holiest site. (AN photo)

To create a similar effect in a photograph, Mater used a long exposure to capture the Kaaba at the height of Hajj in “Tawaf” (2013), an image in which the resulting movement of pilgrims resembles a hurricane around the holiest site in Islam.

The artist admits that the theme might be an unconscious effect of his Islamic upbringing.




A selection from Mater’s ‘Magnetism’ series. (AN photo)

“I think it’s something that is unconsciously done by an artist in their practices,” he said. “You know, sometimes I didn’t pay full attention but after I did my artwork, I noticed. I noticed these kind of things. But maybe spirituality has this feeling.

“So, I come from a religious background and this has, maybe, shaped a lot of my understanding. It’s given me a lot of imagination. You know, religion is part of this big imagination.”




Long exposure creates a hurricane effect at the height of Hajj. (AN photo)

For Mater, 1938 might have been the most important year in the Kingdom’s history. Oil was struck on March 3 that year at the Dammam No. 7 well, and the liquid gold that began to flow would soon begin to finance the Kingdom’s transformation.

Again juxtaposing old and new, traditional and modern, in “Lightning Land” (2017) the artist captures a stunning shot of lightning arcing toward the ground, with a disused Bedouin tent in the foreground and oil machinery in the background.




Mater’s ‘Lightning Land’ highlights the tensions between old and new in Saudi Arabia. (AN photo)

“Evolution of Man” (1979) is Mater’s most morbid work. A horizontal collage begins with a front-on X-ray shot of a man holding a gun to his own head. The next shots morph as a square shape begins to form. The final image is a gas pump, with the nozzle resembling the gun featured in the first image.

The former physician’s prognosis of the Kingdom’s arts scene takes a more positive path, however. Mater believes that cooperation between the public and private sectors is the key to further unleashing Saudi Arabia’s burgeoning cultural industries.

A “big, big awakening of art and culture” is taking place in the Kingdom, he said. Mater himself is part of this public-private synthesis, and one of five leading artists commissioned by Wadi AlFann (Valley of the Arts) in AlUla to produce a large-scale installation in the desert sands.

The result is Ashab Al-Lal, a mighty but unintrusive oculus that will harness light refraction, in a homage to the scientists of the Islamic golden age. Wadi AlFann will start welcoming visitors in 2025.




A model of Mater’s Ashab Al-Lal installation was unveiled at Christie’s. (AN photo) 

“I think now it’s a very optimistic generation; there is a lot of movement,” Mater said.

“So, it’s from both the private body and the public body, together shaping a new future. That’s what I’ve noticed today.”


Red Sea Film Foundation announces mentorship program with Spike Lee

Red Sea Film Foundation announces mentorship program with Spike Lee
Updated 22 April 2025
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Red Sea Film Foundation announces mentorship program with Spike Lee

Red Sea Film Foundation announces mentorship program with Spike Lee

DUBAI: Academy Award-winning filmmaker Spike Lee – known for films like “Malcolm X” and “BlacKkKlansman” – is teaming up with Saudi Arabia's Red Sea Film Foundation to launch the brand new Director’s Program.

The initiative will bring together 15 selected filmmakers for a “one-of-a-kind, intimate and inspiring mentoring experience” with Lee, according to an Instagram post from the foundation.

Taking place from April 30 to May 3, the program offers emerging directors from the Middle East and Asia a rare opportunity to learn from one of the most influential voices in cinema.

Applications are open until April 24.


Simone Biles wins Laureus award in Saudi design

Simone Biles wins Laureus award in Saudi design
Updated 22 April 2025
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Simone Biles wins Laureus award in Saudi design

Simone Biles wins Laureus award in Saudi design
  • Saudi Arabia’s Eman Al-Ajlan designed Biles’ dress
  • US gymnast won 3 gold, 1 silver at Paris Olympics

DUBAI: US gymnast Simone Biles took home the Sportswoman of the Year award at the 2025 Laureus World Sports Awards this week, wearing a black gown by Saudi Arabia designer Eman Al-Ajlan.

The athlete opted for a strapless dress with a structured corset bodice featuring nude and black embroidered detailing. It included a voluminous peplum-style layer at the waist and a floor-length, sheer black skirt.

Simone Biles opted for a strapless dress with a structured corset bodice. (Getty Images)

She paired the look with simple diamond accessories and a black Tyler Ellis bag.

The American gymnast won three gold and a silver at the Paris Olympics.

Swedish pole vaulter Mondo Duplantis was named Sportsman of the Year. He had won a second Olympic gold medal and twice raised his own world record.

Al-Ajlan shared a photo on Instagram of Biles wearing her design, writing: “Congratulations @simonebiles on winning the Laureus World Sportswoman of the Year Award.”

This is not the first time Al-Ajlan’s designs have appeared on major red carpets.

Earlier this year, at the 96th Academy Awards, US social media personality Kristy Sarah wore a gown by Al-Ajlan.

The dress was a strapless, form-fitting gown in a soft nude tone. It featured a structured, ruched bodice that extended into a mermaid-style silhouette.

The skirt and train were embellished with three-dimensional floral appliques in shades of lavender and lilac.

In 2023, she dressed US actress, dancer, and social media star Tessa Brooks in an all-black ensemble for the MusiCares Persons of the Year event in Los Angeles.

The following year, British model and TV presenter Leomie Anderson wore a structured look by Al-Ajlan at the 2024 amfAR Gala in Cannes, featuring a mini dress layered with a net-like skirt.

Al-Ajlan, who launched her label in 2007, is based in Riyadh and specializes in couture, bridal and pret-a-porter designs.

She has dressed several regional celebrities for international events, including Saudi Arabia actresses Mila Alzahrani and Dae Al-Hilali at the 2019 Venice Film Festival.

In 2024, Riyadh-based TV host Ajwa Aljoudi wore a mustard gown by the designer to the 76th Primetime Emmy Awards in Hollywood.


Japan’s Kaneko Masakazu explores memory, myth and nature in intimate Saudi Film Festival talk

Japan’s Kaneko Masakazu explores memory, myth and nature in intimate Saudi Film Festival talk
Updated 22 April 2025
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Japan’s Kaneko Masakazu explores memory, myth and nature in intimate Saudi Film Festival talk

Japan’s Kaneko Masakazu explores memory, myth and nature in intimate Saudi Film Festival talk

DHAHRAN: Japanese filmmaker Kaneko Masakazu — known for his cinematic exploration of nature, memory, and myth — captivated audiences at the 11th Saudi Film Festival (SFF) with an intimate and insightful conversation about the deep connections between culture and storytelling.

Masakazu was joined on stage by Abdulrahman Al-Qarzaee, a fluent Japanese speaker from Saudi Arabia who served as translator with cultural commentator Showg AlBarjas acting as moderator.

The conversation delved into how landscapes, folklore and cultural identity shape cinematic storytelling, facilitating a thoughtful exchange of ideas that spanned cultural boundaries.

During this session, Masakazu shared his approach to filmmaking, particularly in “River Returns” (2024), his third feature film. It was shown just days earlier at the SFF, which is set to wrap up on April 23.

The film, a stunning blend of fantasy and drama, takes place in a rural Japanese village and tells the story of a young boy’s perilous journey to a seemingly haunted body of water. There, he hopes to calm the grief-stricken spirit responsible for devastating floods that have plagued the village. The story is set during the 1958 typhoon, which serves as a backdrop to the boy’s journey.

Masakazu revealed how his work has always been centered on the relationship between humans and nature.

“My work deals with the relationship between nature and humans as its central theme. It tells these stories in a poetic, almost mythical style,” he said.

In “River Returns,” the boy’s journey to the mountain pool is not just a physical one, but a spiritual and emotional quest, too.

The film captures how natural disasters can be viewed as manifestations of spiritual unrest, a concept in Japanese folklore that seemed to resonate with Saudi audiences.

The film’s breathtaking cinematography beautifully contrasts the serene landscapes with the looming, furiously violent storm, underscoring the dynamic between the gentle and the destructive forces of nature.

“The meaning of the narrative is ultimately left to the viewer — whether they experience sadness, love or the echo of an ancient tale,” Masakazu shared. “In the end, it becomes a transmission of culture, a passing down of folklore, all leading back to a shared emotional core. At the same time, I’m interested in how people respond — how a non-Japanese audience might engage with it.”


Quirky abaya brands reveal the changing face of Saudi fashion

Quirky abaya brands reveal the changing face of Saudi fashion
Updated 22 April 2025
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Quirky abaya brands reveal the changing face of Saudi fashion

Quirky abaya brands reveal the changing face of Saudi fashion
  • Designers repurpose traditional looks to highlight individuality
  • Saudi girls, women express themselves, while retaining modesty, tradition

RIYADH: Saudi Arabia’s streets are increasingly seeing women dressed in vibrant and daring colors, patterns and fabrics as abaya designers make more creative choices.

Once considered a garment to hide behind, abayas have become a form of artistic beauty that Saudi girls and women use to express themselves, while retaining modesty and tradition.

Today there is an influx of brands specializing in quirkier designs whose aim is to make women feel both comfortable and unique in their clothing choices.

Reem Al-Bayyat, founder of Mad Since 1982 (Instagram: madsince1982), told Arab News that “every piece tells a story; no two look the same.”

Mad Since 1982 weaves together different pieces of fabric printed with Al-Bayyat’s illustrations. As a collage artist, she never combines the same fabrics in the same way twice.

“It is a story, but also a risk and an adventure, whether things will work out or not … all my friends ask me how I dare to put the fabrics together in this way,” she said.

With a passion for ready-to-wear, Al-Bayyat’s goal is to make wearable, everyday pieces more beautiful and elegant.

“I want it to be close to the hearts of the people wearing it, I want them to feel special.

“That is how I was inspired to created Hadaweh.”

Hadaweh, Mad Since 1982’s recent modest wear creation, is an original clothing concept that can be worn in multiple ways for different occasions.

Al-Bayyat has been working for years with handmade block printing companies in India that use natural colors and fabrics, and occasionally imports fabrics with patterns she creates herself.

“My next step is having my own printing lab in my atelier,” she said.

Al-Bayyat, a former professional photographer who focused on fashion, draws inspiration from both local and international cultures.

“I have a lot of freedom when I’m working without any fear,” she said.

Another Saudi abaya brand exhibiting similar principles of individuality is Lamya’s Abayas (Instagram: lamya.abayas), founded by Lamya Al-Sarra.

Al-Sarra’s abayas are colorful and full of life, designed to reflect the personality and confidence of the women wearing them.

“I would describe Lamya’s Abayas as timeless, elegant, and effortlessly stylish. Each piece is designed to make a statement, while still feeling versatile and wearable,” she said.

“I love playing with bold colors, interesting cuts, and unexpected details that set each design apart.”

As a child, Al-Sarra spent her time sketching dresses and different looks in a notebook, and although that dream did not follow her through university, she found herself returning to her roots when the idea of starting her own abaya brand came to fruition.

Unimpressed with the designs available in stores, Al-Sarra decided to create her own.

“I kept designing pieces that felt true to me, and soon enough, people started stopping me to ask where my abayas were from. I’d tell them, ‘It’s mine. I designed it.’”

The hobby that she practiced for friends and family quickly became a full-fledged business.

Al-Sarra favors self-expression when choosing colors and designs, especially through vibrant summer tones.

The garments are meant to spark joy and represent individuality, helping people feel confident in their clothing.

“I believe your surroundings shouldn’t limit how you express yourself. Whether you’re wearing something bold, trendy, or completely unique, it should always reflect you,” she said.

Al-Sarra uses a variety of different fabrics for different looks and occasions — linen, for example, for light and breathable wear in summer, richer textures like velvet or tweed in winter, and taffeta and katan for more formal or structured looks.

Celebrating both family and sustainability, Moja Majka (Instagram: mojamajka) is a slow fashion abaya brand founded by a mother and daughter that is built on values of authenticity, as well as cultural and natural connection.

Sarah Basaad and her mother Sureyya Barli launched Moja Majka in 2012 to answer their need for more colorful garments that use organic and airy fabrics.

“It is an extension of our characters,” Basaad said.

Going for timeless rather than trendy, Moja Majka takes inspiration from both Turkish and Saudi cultures, since Barli is of Turkish descent.

The brand’s textiles are completely organic linens, cottons, and silks, some woven in Turkiye.

“We support local artisans and artisanal work,” Basaad said.

The brand is focused on bringing back long-forgotten artisanal work. “We collect antique handcrafted pieces and fabrics that are no longer able to be reproduced in our time, she said.

“Our kaftans are not a victim of trends, but a classic to pass onto your loved ones.”


Thousands rock at music shows in Jeddah after F1

Thousands rock at music shows in Jeddah after F1
Updated 22 April 2025
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Thousands rock at music shows in Jeddah after F1

Thousands rock at music shows in Jeddah after F1
  • Jennifer Lopez, Usher lit up the stage on Saturday and Sunday
  • This is cultural tourism via entertainment, says MDLBEAST CEO

JEDDAH: The past two days were filled with high-speed thrills and electrifying musical performances as the Formula One Saudi Arabian Grand Prix 2025 took over the city.

The after-race concerts, held at the Jeddah Corniche Circuit, were headlined by global music icons Jennifer Lopez and Usher, who lit up the stage on Saturday and Sunday night.

The party began right after a thrilling qualifying race, when Lopez stepped on stage. Wearing a dazzling black skintight catsuit, the 55-year-old icon made a bold and unforgettable entrance for an adoring crowd.

From the opening beats of “Get Right” to the final fireworks of “On the Floor,” Lopez delivered a show packed with powerhouse vocals, explosive choreography, and pure star energy.

The Bronx-born singer, who has sold over 80 million records and earned a star on the Hollywood Walk of Fame, treated fans to a string of hits including “Jenny from the Block,” “Ain’t It Funny,” “I’m Real,” and “Love Don’t Cost a Thing.”

“This is an incredible place with an incredible backdrop for F1,” Lopez told the crowd, glowing with excitement. “It feels good to be back out here. I love the energy here. I am feeling myself a little bit here.”

In an emotional moment, the singer told the crowd: “Love is feeling safe, love is secured, that’s what love is.”

JLo graced the stage in a series of stunning outfits, changing into a red suit, followed by a golden one, and finishing the show in pink.

The audience responded with roaring applause, with many in tears.

“JLo brought the energy, the heart, and the glam,” said Reem Al-Sharif, a 29-year-old from Jeddah. “When she talked about love, I really felt that. She’s not just a performer, she’s a storyteller.”

Ramadan Al-Haratani, CEO of MDLBEAST, said: “This is what cultural tourism through entertainment looks like. The music doesn’t just support the race weekend, it transforms it.”

The following night, Usher, the king of smooth R&B, delivered a thrilling performance that brought the Grand Prix to a stylish and electrifying close.

Dressed in an edgy all-black ensemble, Usher commanded the stage with his signature swagger.

The Grammy-winning artist took fans on a journey through two decades of hits, from the crowd-hyping “Yeah!” to slow jams including “Nice & Slow,” “U Got It Bad,” and “My Boo.”

His charisma, vocals, and iconic dance moves had fans on their feet all night.

“This was my first time seeing Usher live, and it was worth every second,” said Talal Saleh, another concertgoer. “His connection with the crowd, the performance, everything was perfect. He even brought some nostalgic 2000s magic to Jeddah.”

Lina Al-Mansour, who attended both concerts, said: “The entire experience felt like a music festival and a Formula 1 race rolled into one. It was world-class entertainment right here in Jeddah.

“I never imagined seeing JLo and Usher in my hometown.”

The concerts also featured supporting acts including Major Lazer and Peggy Gou, who kept the crowd hyped between the headliners.