Arab-American Heritage Month: Why using pattern for communication has been Doris Bittar’s life mission
The first in this year’s series focusing on contemporary Arab-American artists in honor of Arab-American Heritage Month
Updated 04 April 2024
Rawaa Talass
DUBAI: The Arab-American artist Doris Bittar, known for her patterned imagery, has lived in California for more than 35 years. She has studios in Los Angeles and San Diego and her work has been displayed in many American institutions, as well as the Institut du Monde Arabe in Paris and at the Venice Biennale.
But her story really begins in the Arab world. Bittar is of Lebanese and Palestinian heritage, but was born in Baghdad. She then spent some of her early childhood in Beirut before her family emigrated to New York in the late 1960s, when Bittar was just six. But those early years in the Middle East left an indelible mark on her art. Making art runs in the family; her father taught her to draw and her mother painted.
Doris Bittar, known for her patterned imagery, has lived in California for more than 35 years. (Supplied)
On growing up in the United States, Bittar tells Arab News: "There was a lot of ignorance around me. I remember in grade school, people asking me what we ate and wondering if we ate mice. But adapting wasn't difficult. Assimilating, I think, is something Arab-Americans do very well.”
Her interest in floral, calligraphic and Islamic pattern stems from her childhood. "Like many who grew up in an Arab household, I grew up in a patterned environment," she says. "You're kind of surrounded by the carpet and your mom's embroideries.”
Throughout her career, Bittar has thoughtfully used geometric patterns in public murals, paintings, installations, and other mediums.
“My interest in pattern and decoration was one of structure,” she says. “Pattern and decoration are often relegated to a lower status because they seem like fill-ins and have nothing to do with composition, or other ‘hardcore’ art issues. I was interested in how those things could be structured.
"Using pattern as a structure for communication has really been my life's mission," she continues. "If I take a pattern and turn it into a lattice — something you can look through — it becomes a bridge that you can use to discuss various things about history — like the erasure of Arab history, especially in the West. . . Part of me wanted to work with irony and embrace these trappings of beauty and examine them and turn them into structures that are empowering."
Celine Dion, Jennifer Lopez and Halle Berry hit the stage at landmark Elie Saab show in Riyadh
Updated 14 November 2024
Tamara Aboalsaud
RIYADH: The only thing sparkling brighter than the stars on the red carpet and performers on stage were the dresses on the runway as Lebanese icon Elie Saab put on a spectacle on Wednesday night in Riyadh with Jennifer Lopez, Celine Dion and Halle Berry hitting the stage in addition to a runway show of his creations.
Celine Dion was spotted on the red carpet at the event. (AN Photo/ Jafer Alsaleh)
In celebration of 45 years of Elie Saab, the show displayed 300 designs under the theme “1001 Seasons of Elie Saab,” an homage to the 1001 nights collection of Middle Eastern folktales.
Former French Vogue editor Carine Roitfeld styled all the looks for the runway.
Guests were given a surprise when stars Lopez, Camila Cabello, Nancy Ajram, Amr Diab, and the legendary Celine Dion took to the stage in celebration of Elie Saab.
Oscar-winner Halle Berry hit the stage. (AN Photo/ Jafer Alsaleh)
Opening the show was none other than Hollywood actress Berry wearing the same Elie Saab gown she wore when she won her first Oscar in 2002, making her the first Black woman to win the award for Best Actress.
Prior to the show, Berry was seen on the red carpet talking about how this was her first time meeting Saab in person, “That was the highlight of this trip for me to finally meet this man who I have been inextricably connected to for 22 years, and to give him a hug and tell him thank you.”
Pop icon Jennifer Lopez performed at the event. (AN Photo/ Jafer Alsaleh)
Celebrity stylist Law Roach, known for styling Hollywood A-listers like Zendaya, Anya Taylor Joy, Bella Hadid, and Celine Dion, talked to Arab News about Elie Saab’s ability to transcend eras.
“Elie Saab is one of the few couturiers whose clothes can be passed down to generations and generations and be reinterpreted.”
Models gather on stage at the Elie Saab show in Riyadh. (AN Photo/ Jafer Alsaleh)
“Maybe someone got married in it (a dress), and maybe generations down the granddaughter of someone gets married in the same dress, it has that possibility of just being timeless and forever,” he said.
Saudi French model Amira Al-Zuhair was spotted on the runway. (AN Photo/ Jafer Alsaleh)
The spectacle began with a performance by Lopez, a frequent wearer of Saab’s creations. The first designs exhibited an array of black-and-white dresses adorned in classic crystals, a signature touch in most of his designs.
Next up was “an ode to the female figure”, where dresses in different shades of pink and green were lit up on stage with the help of singer-songwriter Camila Cabello. This section of the show featured what looked like a garden theme, detailing the beauty of the natural world as it interconnects with the beauty of women.
The tale continued into a silver and blue chapter, where the audience was given a touch of Arab culture with Lebanese singing icon Nancy Ajram, a nod to Elie Saab’s Lebanese heritage as well, followed by Egyptian star Amr Diab.
The show featured 300 looks. (AN Photo/ Jafer Alsaleh)
“Elie Saab, the name introduces itself. When we say Elie Saab we say elegance… when I wear Elie Saab I look at myself in the mirror more often and find myself more beautiful,” Ajram stated before her performance.
“I am also happy that a Lebanese creative deserves to be honored, is very successful, and we all see ourselves in him.”
In celebration of 45 years of Elie Saab, the show displayed 300 designs under the theme “1001 Seasons of Elie Saab.” (AN Photo/ Jafer Alsaleh)
The show concluded with a showcase by Dion, who gave an emotional and empowering performance that had the entire audience on their feet.
The show featured 300 looks. (AN Photo/ Jafer Alsaleh)
“Being here (in Riyadh) for the first time is kind of a dream come true,” Dion said.
“His (Elie Saab’s) generosity, his talent, he has been singing with me because I have been wearing his dresses, his talent, for many, many, years.”
In celebration of 45 years of Elie Saab, the show displayed 300 designs under the theme “1001 Seasons of Elie Saab.” (AN Photo/ Jafer Alsaleh)
Elie Saab Jr., CEO of Elie Saab, said: “We have been thinking a lot about how to create an international event in high fashion in the heart of Riyadh. And I believe it is a one of a kind event, not just for Riyadh, but for the whole world and the whole fashion industry.”
The evening was attended by more than 1,000 guests, including Egyptian actress Youssra; Italian star Monica Bellucci; British models Rosie Huntington-Whiteley, Poppy Delevingne and Jourdan Dunn, supermodels Adriana Lima, Candice Swanepoel and Helena Christensen, and Arab actresses Nadine Njeim, Cyrine Abdel Nour, and Tara Emad.
Lebanese superstar Nancy Ajram on stage. (Supplied)
Mustafa Sammak, COO of Ohana Development, which collaborated with Elie Saab on the Waterfront Tower in Abu Dhabi, told Arab News at the event that the showcase “powerfully reflects Middle Eastern artistry and heritage, drawing global attention to the region’s luxury landscape and creative depth. It reminds us that design — whether in fashion or real estate — has the ability to tell stories and bridge cultures.”
Saudi digital artist Khaled Makshoush: ‘I chase an atmosphere’
Makshoush is one of the participants in the newly launched Diriyah Arts Futures
Updated 14 November 2024
Hams Saleh
DUBAI: Saudi Arabia’s Diriyah is now nurturing the Kingdom’s creative future. The UNESCO World Heritage site recently launched Diriyah Art Futures (DAF), an initiative aimed at empowering the next generation of Saudi digital artists.
Among the select few to join DAF’s Emerging New Media Artists program is Saudi pixel artist Khaled Makshoush, who is now part of a project designed to establish Riyadh as a global capital of new media art.
Cranes, 2024, Pixel Art. (Supplied)
The program, designed in collaboration with France’s Le Fresnoy Studio National des Arts Contemporains, provides artists like Makshoush with access to advanced equipment, production budgets, and mentorship from international digital art experts.
Reflecting on this opportunity, Makshoush told Arab News how meaningful it feels to exhibit and evolve his pixel art within his homeland.
“When I started creating digital art, especially pixel art, I never thought I would get an opportunity like this, with such a program and in my own city,” he said. “I am really grateful for that and to get the chance to actually put my pixel art out there.”
Among the select few to join DAF’s Emerging New Media Artists program is Saudi pixel artist Khaled Makshoush, who is now part of a project designed to establish Riyadh as a global capital of new media art. (Supplied)
Makshoush’s journey into pixel art began in 2015, when he and a friend explored the idea of creating video games. While his friend handled the programming, Makshoush took on the artistic side, initially choosing pixel art for its perceived simplicity.
Over time, that initial foray transformed into a deeper passion. By 2016, he was dedicating himself fully to the medium, honing his skills through a disciplined daily painting practice, which pushed him to continually explore new ideas and techniques.
“This forced me to ask myself, ‘What do I want to draw? What do I want to paint? And that, I think, was a big question. It kind of led me into a journey of discovering myself,” he said.
Today, Makshoush’s art often centers around the landscapes and cityscapes of Riyadh.
Petrochemical, 2020, Pixel Art. (Supplied)
“I focus on feeling the space. Like, how and why does it make me feel a certain way? When I’m outside and I see something interesting, I try to explore it,” he said.
For Makshoush, the power of pixel art lies in its ability to capture and convey a distinct impression — a quality that he strives to evoke in each piece he creates.
“I chase an atmosphere,” he explained. “My work represents my state of mind during the time that I create (an artwork).”
His personal connection to, and love for, Riyadh is evident in his work, which manages to be both contemporary, but somehow nostalgic at the same time, perhaps because of his retro graphics style.
Through the DAF program, Makshoush hopes to push his skills further by experimenting with larger scales as well as with new technologies.
Saturday Morning, 2023, Pixel Art. (Supplied)
The mentorship component of the program, he said, is particularly exciting for him, as it offers a chance to explore intersections between pixel art and other digital forms. He would love to explore techniques like programming or ways to exhibit his work interactively. He envisions his art evolving into installations that blend the virtual and physical, bridging the gap between the online world, where digital art typically lives, and tangible exhibitions.
“The idea of moving pixel art from the screen to the physical space is intriguing — finding a balance where it retains its digital essence while existing outside the internet,” he said.
Pixel art, so heavily linked to vintage video games from “Space Invaders” and “Pac-Man” to “Super Mario Bros,” has evolved significantly in recent years, Makshoush believes. He noted that, especially since the early 2010s, social media has helped push pixel art into new realms, with artists worldwide reimagining it and taking it beyond its nostalgic associations. He described a movement primarily driven by Japanese and Western artists, characterized by serene, almost cinematic scenes that evoke a quiet beauty.
“It’s about creating an atmosphere rather than reliving the nostalgia of video games,” he said.
With his newfound access to resources and mentors, Makshoush is eager to contribute to Saudi Arabia’s burgeoning digital art scene, which he sees as increasingly dynamic and influential.
“We have a lot of digital artists now in Saudi Arabia and it is only becoming bigger and bigger,” he said. “I hope my work can inspire others as I was once inspired.”
Recipes for Success: Chef Ranveer Brar offers advice and a delicious saag meat recipe
Updated 14 November 2024
Shyama Krishna Kumar
DUBAI: Celebrity chef, painter and actor Ranveer Brar was born in Lucknow, northern India, and fell in love with cooking at a very young age. While accompanying his grandfather to the local gurudwara (Sikh place of worship), he remembers sneaking into the community kitchen — known as a langar — excited by all the activity there.
“A few years later, when I was a pre-teen, the priest called me aside and asked me to prepare the rice dish, as his wife was unwell that day. I had no list of ingredients, nor the recipe, but, recalling what I’d observed, I prepared the dish and it turned out quite well. That was my first experience of instant gratification with food,” Brar tells Arab News. “After my debut at the gurudwara, my next attempt at cooking was when my mother fell ill and I made rajma — again, without any recipe, I just made it from my memory of watching my mother make it. I overheard my dad complimenting the attempt and, at that moment, I realized that food was my calling.”
Brar opened his first restaurant in the Gulf in Dubai late last year.
Brar opened his first restaurant in the Gulf in Dubai late last year. (Supplied)
“Kashkan means ‘From Kashmir to Kanyakumari,’” he says. “The UAE, and Dubai in particular, seemed like the perfect venue because it is a melting pot of both cultures and cuisines, so what better place to celebrate Kashkan’s melange of flavours?”
Here, Brar discusses his favorite ingredient, the toughest dish to perfect, and advice for amateurs.
When you started out, what was the most common mistake you made?
Trying to do too much and over-express myself. As a result, I was losing myself — the idea I was trying to express was getting lost. With age I understood that not everything one knows needs to be expressed in a single dish. Wisdom lies in choosing the right moment for the right expression.
What’s your top tip for amateurs?
Stick to the basics. If you get the fundamentals right, you can rarely go wrong with cooking. They can then become the basis for innovation as one evolves.
What one ingredient can instantly improve any dish?
That would be coriander for me, adding a lot of freshness. From the stalks to the leaves, every element of the herb is fascinating. Also olive oil, which adds richness.
When you go out to eat, do you find yourself critiquing the food?
I don’t really. I view food as food. The reason I am who I am is because food has always made me happy, so I don’t want to take that role away from food in my life. When eating out, I try to feel, understand and appreciate the intent of the person who’s cooking. But when it’s my cooking, I tend to be quite harsh and critical of myself, because every time you cook, it’s an opportunity to improve yourself.
What’s your favorite cuisine?
It’s usually the local food of the place I am travelling to. Also, the simpler the restaurant, the more likely I am to end up there. I believe the essence of good food is its simplicity. What better than street food and age-old places to understand the true culture and cuisine of any place?
(Supplied)
What’s your go-to dish if you have to cook something quickly at home?
Has to be khichdi. It’s the perfect one-pot meal that has everything your appetite needs. Add in vegetables and you get a good proportion of all nutrients on your plate. And don’t forget the ghee!
What customer request most annoys you?
Strangely, it’s when they ask for salt! Salt is such an important element of any dish. A little too much salt can subdue other flavors and too little can fail to elevate them. I feel it’s the chef’s judgment of the amount of salt that allows us to experience the dish as intended. So when customers ask for salt it disappoints me, because the true nature of the dish might get spoiled.
What’s your favorite dish to cook and why?
My special chicken curry. Be it family or friends, I always get asked for that. It’s now a signature dish at Kashkan too.
What’s the most difficult dish for you to get right?
Biryani is something I would love to keep perfecting. You have to cook many layers of rice at the same time, giving it minimum water, minimum heat over a long period of time, with every grain of rice being the same, every layer of flavor equally coating the rice. I think biryani is the perfect test for anyone who is a student of Salt-Fat-Acid-Heat.
As a head chef, what are you like? Are you a disciplinarian? Or are you more laid back?
I used to be a disciplinarian believing that cooking was all about control; the heat, environment, ingredients and cooking itself. Now I’m more relaxed; it’s more collaborative, it’s more about letting the team express themselves and my role is to guide them through that expression.
RECIPE: SAAG MEAT
(Supplied)
Preparation time: 10 minutes
Cooking time: 35-40 minutes
Serves 2-4
INGREDIENTS:
For the marination:
4 medium Onions, sliced
¼ cup fresh Fenugreek leaves
¾ cup Curd, beaten
Salt to taste
½ tsp Turmeric powder
½ tsp Degi red chili powder
½ tsp Coriander powder
1 kg Mutton (with bones)
½ tbsp Ginger Garlic paste
For the mutton:
3-4 tbsp Oil
3 Bay leaf
2 Black cardamom
2 Cloves
¼ tsp Cumin seeds
Marinated Mutton
Salt to taste
few fresh Fenugreek leaves
Little water
For the saag meat:
1 tbsp Oil
1 tbsp Ghee
1 inch Ginger (peeled & chopped)
4-5 Garlic cloves, chopped
2 medium Onions, chopped
2-3 Green chillies
2 Dry red chillies
2-3 medium bunch fresh Spinach leaves, chopped
¼ cup Amaranth (Bathua)
Salt to taste
Little water
1 tbsp Butter, cubed
Pressure Cooked Mutton
½ tbsp unsalted Butter or white butter, cubed (optional)
½ tsp Mustard oil
For garnish:
Coriander sprig
INSTRUCTIONS
For marination:
In a bowl, add onions, fresh fenugreek leaves, curd, salt to taste, turmeric powder, deg red chili powder, coriander powder, mutton, ginger garlic paste and mix it well.
Keep it aside for further use.
For the mutton:
In a pressure cooker, add oil, once it's hot, add bay leaf, black cardamom, cloves, cumin seeds and let it splutter.
Add marinated mutton and saute it for 6-7 minutes. Add salt to taste and cook for a while.
Add a few fenugreek leaves and mix well. Add water, close the lid and cook it for 5-6 whistles or until the mutton is tender.
Keep it aside for further use.
For the saag meat:
In a kadai (Indian wok), add oil, ghee, once it's hot, ginger, garlic, onion, green chillies and saute for a minute.
Add dry red chillies and saute well. Add spinach, amaranth leaves, salt to taste, water and saute well.
Add butter, close the lid and cook it for 3-4 minutes.
Add cooked mutton and let it simmer for a while.
To finish, add unsalted butter or white butter, mustard oil and stir it well.
Transfer it to a serving dish and garnish it with coriander sprig.
Best and worst: Nour Hassan discusses memorable style moments, her take on trends
Updated 14 November 2024
Hams Saleh
DUBAI: The Saudi-Egyptian podcast host and influencer shares memorable style moments, her take on trends, and the best and worst advice she ever received.
Best TV show or film you’ve ever seen?
“Gossip Girl” remains an iconic show for both fashion and pop culture. One of my favorite movies is “Pride and Prejudice” starring Keira Knightley, possibly since this is also one of my favorite books. And I have to watch “Love, Actually” at least once a year around December.
Worst TV show/film you’ve ever seen?
I don’t like anything dark or dreary. I prefer shows and movies that inspire and uplift because I think there is enough darkness in the world.
Nour Hassan is a Saudi-Egyptian podcast host and influencer. (Supplied)
Best personal style moment so far?
I would definitely have to say my custom couture Jean Pierre Khoury wedding dress. It was a timeless piece. Another style moment I cherish is wearing Marmar Halim to El Gouna Film Festival.
Worst personal style moment?
Overall my style has been quite consistent and identifiable. I wouldn’t say I have a worst, necessarily, but any time I opt for a trend, it does not age well. This might be too soon, but I cannot stand those flower hair clips anymore. I also rarely wear yellow or pink. But I change my mind often, as a Libra, so you might catch me in a full yellow look after saying this.
Pearls. They’re such an underrated accessory. They can really help achieve a timeless look — something from the 1920s and ’30s when fashion was more feminine and definitely more demure.
Worst accessory for a little black dress?
Too much color. Own the black cat moment, make it bold. The black dress is a statement. It exudes confidence and power, so keep it simple and classic.
Best fashion trend of 2024?
The Fall/ Winter color palette is everything. Chocolate brown, deep burgundy, taupes and nudes. These are the colors I've always loved the most. As an Arab woman with Egyptian Pharaonic features, I always find the warmth brings out all the best aspects of my complexion. Cool tones like navy are not my go-to, but thankfully I think we’re over that age-old rule of not pairing navy with black. Fashion is becoming more free and I am here for it.
Ballerinas — ballet shoes — are something I cannot get myself to return to. I used to love them — I lived in them in the early 2000s — but something about them makes the entire outfit look naïve, and I don’t like that. It’s not a look I’d go back to, although Miu Miu has tempted me many times.
Best advice you’ve ever been given?
Never compare yourself to anyone. I think that’s almost impossible in the age of social media, but if you start the game of comparison it will never end. Focus on yourself and your work. That’s the only way to stay unique and authentic in the contemporary landscape.
Asking for too much advice is usually a problem. Ultimately, you need to be able to make calls for yourself.
Best book you’ve ever read?
“The Untethered Soul” by Michael Singer is a book that can change your life — but only if you’re ready to grasp the sobering message that you are, in fact, in control of your life and your circumstances. It’s a scary thought and you have to be ready to take accountability for your life. For non-fiction it is, and always will be, the “Harry Potter” books.
Worst book you’ve ever read?
A mentor once told me that a book finds you when you’re ready for it. I don’t think you can go wrong with reading. There is always something to learn. Even if you hated the book then that’s a lesson on what you do not enjoy.
Pilates or a good long walk will elevate just about any aspect of your day, especially the latter. Sometimes, if you do not have the energy for an intense workout, it’s best to listen and not force it. Just go for 15 mins — do something to move the body and it will help free your mind.
Worst thing to do when you’re feeling good?
Be anywhere but in the now.
Best holiday destination?
Rome. Always. It’s a city that allows you to dream big — it kind of reminds me of certain parts of Cairo. It shows you what human beings are capable of and how vast and expansive civilization really is.
I’m not a camping girl, so anything like that, or somewhere with an arid climate, is not for me.
Best subject at school?
English. I got an award for the highest score in the Middle East during my IB Diploma. I’m a writer first and foremost, so I loved reading prose, analyzing poems and writing short stories. Art was equally a favorite. Both encompass the majority of my interests and passions.
Worst subject at school?
I was a major nerd so I didn’t really have a worst subject. I aced them all, like it or not. If I had to pick one perhaps it would be physics. I had a love-hate relationship with this subject.
Best thing to do to ensure you have a productive day?
Wake up before the sun. The days I wake up early are completely different to the days when I do not. I think deep down inside we all know this is the ultimate life hack, but potentially the most difficult one to implement because it requires uprooting your entire routine. I wake up at 5 a.m. at least once a week to reset and prepare for the week.
Worst thing to do when you’re trying to have a productive day?
Open social media. You’ll be in the vortex for hours.
Chanel spotlights regional models in campaigns, cruise shows
Updated 13 November 2024
Arab News
DUBAI: French luxury fashion house Chanel continues to spotlight regional models in its global campaigns and cruise shows, with its latest release featuring Mona Tougaard.
The Danish model, of Turkish, Somali, and Ethiopian descent, was seen posing for Chanel’s new holiday campaign. In the image, Tougaard wore Chanel’s “Premiere Edition Original” watch in 0.1-micron yellow gold-plated steel paired with black leather.
Her look was completed with a choker, ring, and earrings from the brand’s “Camellia” collection, crafted in yellow gold and adorned with diamonds. She also accessorized with bracelets and earrings from the “Coco Crush” line, designed in beige and white gold with diamond accents.
Meanwhile, French Algerian model Loli Bahia gave fans a sneak peek of the fashion house’s cruise show in Hong Kong on Tuesday through her Instagram account.
She posted images of herself displayed on a wall, showing off pieces she wore in the show last week. In one shot, she’s styled in classic Chanel fashion, donning a cream crochet jacket layered over an intricate chain and pendant body piece.
In another image, she was seen in a brown leather vest matched with coordinating shorts and ballerina flats.
French Algerian model Loli Bahia gave fans a sneak peek of the fashion house’s cruise show in Hong Kong on Tuesday through her Instagram account. (Instagram)
Part-Saudi model Shanina Shaik, who has Pakistani, Lithuanian and Australian heritage, promoted Chanel’s beauty line to her 3.4 million Instagram followers.
“All the beautiful products from the holiday glam,” she captioned her story, showcasing an eyeshadow palette, a face palette, a highlighter, along with lip liners and lipsticks.
She also shared a story spraying the limited edition No.5 Eau de Parfum, part of Chanel’s holiday collection.
In June, Bahia walked the brand’s runway during Paris Fashion Week. She donned a two-piece ensemble comprising a tailored buttoned jacket complemented by a matching knee-length skirt in a delicate tweed fabric.
In May, Bahia and part-Saudi Amira Al-Zuhair walked the Chanel Cruise 2024/2025 show in Marseille, France.
Bahia donned a green ensemble, composed of a knee-length pencil skirt paired with a matching top, layered over a white shirt boasting a hoodie collar, while Al-Zuhair sported a vibrant yellow ensemble featuring hot shorts paired with a button-down top and a coordinating cardigan.
