‘More than Meets the Eye’ celebrates Saudi artists and collectors 

‘More than Meets the Eye’ celebrates Saudi artists and collectors 
Ahmed Mater, ‘Cowboy Code,’ 2012. (Supplied)
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Updated 21 March 2024
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‘More than Meets the Eye’ celebrates Saudi artists and collectors 

‘More than Meets the Eye’ celebrates Saudi artists and collectors 
  • Highlights from the exhibition, which includes works from 1950 up to the present day 

ALULA: AlUla’s mirrored Maraya concert hall is currently hosting “More than Meets the Eye,” featuring works from private art collections in Saudi Arabia, some of which are being displayed publicly for the first time. 

The show includes work dating back to the 1950s up to the present day, ranging from paintings to films and installations, and exploring themes including identity, poetry and homeland.  

“Our aim is to show the importance of collectors in Saudi Arabia and the role they played in the art ecosystem,” the show’s Saudi curator, Dr. Effat Abdullah Fadag, tells Arab News.  

Fadag traveled across the Kingdom, meeting the collectors and hearing the stories behind those collections.  

“I was very surprised of the amount of people who collected art for different reasons. It was overwhelming,” she says.  

One of Fadag’s aims was to bring together Saudi Arabia’s former and current generation of artists, some of whom originally come from other Arab countries, but made a name for themselves in the Kingdom.  

“I wanted to present artworks that are in dialogue with each other, rather than segregating them,” she explains. “Their aesthetics are different, but if we look into it, they’re exploring the same issues.”  

Here are seven highlights from the show, which runs until April 24.   

Abdulhalim Radwi 

‘Untitled’ (1978) 

The late Makkah-born artist is one of the luminaries of modern Saudi art. He was educated in Rome during the 1960s, making him one of the country’s first artists to study abroad. According to Fadag, after losing his father during childhood, Radwi was raised by his single mother and later had to provide for the family himself.   

In this predominantly blue-tuned painting, hailing from the collection of fellow artist Ali Alruzaiza, Radwi constructs an abstract scene of buildings in Makkah, set against a spiral background. “His relationship with Makkah was very important,” notes Fadag. 

Ahmed Mater  

‘Cowboy Code’ (2012) 

Mater hanging work is one of the largest pieces on show. “Cowboy Code” is made of hundreds of red plastic toy gun caps glued together, displaying a 10-point, written manifesto explaining how a cowboy (or a ‘virtuous’ person in general) should behave. “There is a connection to Bedouins and tribes,” says Fadag. “It’s an important work because he is examining foreign cultural influences inside Saudi Arabia.” According to the exhibition catalogue, “the code seems to point to a subversive critique of Western imperialism — a common feature of many of the artist’s artworks. 

Ali Alruzaiza  

‘Purity’ (2006) 

Alruzaiza is a former interior design student and reportedly built his own house. Much of the veteran artist’s work incorporates intricate Saudi architectural motifs. This work for example, made of sand and oil on canvas, showcases geometric designs and floral patterns. According to Fadag, the image has a human element too. “(This) work sheds light on the pivotal role of individuals in the community,” she says. “It serves as a reflection of individuals — particularly the workers who have collaborated closely with Ali. It embodies the purity of their relationships, devoid of ulterior motives, symbolizing the essence of society.”  

Fahad Hajailan  

‘Untitled’ (2001) 

In this dreamy portrait, which has not been exhibited before, Hajailan depicts his wife in dark green and blue tones. Fadag says the image is one of the artist’s “more sensual” pieces, and uses colors that are not typical to his work. “The strength and power of a female figure are expressed here in balance between movement and unity,” according to a statement. “The use of lapiz lazuli ultramarine blue symbolizes water, the sky, or the home of the gods, to position the female figure in a role of power.” 

Shadia Alem  

‘Supreme Kaaba of God, No. 4’ (2012) 

In this extraordinary collage of photographs, the multidisciplinary artist examines the physical changes happening in the city of Makkah. “It shows the conflict between spirituality and modernity,” Alem said in a statement. In the very center of the image stands the Holy Kaaba, surrounded by the windows of houses and imposing cranes.  

“I put this work in a particular room of the exhibition, which is about self-development and rebirth. These changes are happening physically, but we are automatically changing on the inside too,” says Fadag.

Muhannad Shono 

‘Letters in Light (Lines We Write)’ (2022) 

Spirituality, light and shadow are among the key themes of this monochrome work by the Saudi conceptual artist, who previously represented the Kingdom at the Venice Biennale. Here, Shono creates a meditative experience using steel, thread, and light projection. 

“The artworks featured in the exhibition present spirituality as an interesting subject that has been touched by artists in the Kingdom, serving as a medium through which artists articulate their inquiries and internal wisdom,” says Fadag. “By exploring the interplay between light and darkness, Muhannad’s artwork carves out spaces that shape our identities, inviting us to reach into our core to gain insight into the external world.” 

Adel Al-Quraishi  

‘Ateeq, the Bedouin, Desert of Nafud’ (2015) 

This striking black-and-white image of an elderly Bedouin man pouring coffee from the traditional Saudi flask with the confidence of a professional barista is typical of Al-Quraishi’s work, much of which involves documenting the people of his homeland, whether in the desert or in a studio setting. According to the exhibition catalogue, Al-Quraishi — born in 1968 — has been an influential figure in Saudi art because “his investment in documenting heritage sites, places and people of Saudi Arabia has shaped the ways in which documentation was introduced within contemporary art practices.” 


Roberto Cavalli closes Dubai Fashion Week with bold animal prints, vibrant hues

Roberto Cavalli closes Dubai Fashion Week with bold animal prints, vibrant hues
Updated 07 September 2024
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Roberto Cavalli closes Dubai Fashion Week with bold animal prints, vibrant hues

Roberto Cavalli closes Dubai Fashion Week with bold animal prints, vibrant hues

DUBAI: The Italian luxury label Roberto Cavalli closed out Dubai Fashion Week this week with a presentation of its spring/summer 2025 collection, marking the brand’s first showcase in the Middle East.

Models descended onto the runway against a backdrop featuring the brand’s signature golden emblem. The runway was framed by a textured wall, with lighting that emphasized the collection.

The show kicked off with a powerful display of bold black-and-white printed outfits, featuring eye-catching patterns reminiscent of animal motifs, setting the stage for what was to come.

(Supplied)

The models strutted down the runway in long, structured coats and tailored suits, complemented by wide-brimmed hats and high boots.

Sleek tailored suits, glamorous mini-dresses, and flowing gowns reflected a mix of modern sophistication and bold statement pieces.

As the collection progressed, the color palette began to shift from monochromatic tones to vibrant hues, starting with a bold introduction of bright greens. Flowing pleated dresses and figure-hugging designs in various shades of green took center stage.

 (Instagram)

The green hues were followed by striking pinks and deep reds, with rose patterns adorning halter-neck dresses and flowing gowns.

In addition to the vivid colors, the collection featured a variety of textures. A standout piece was a fuchsia snake-patterned suit. Pleated fabrics added movement, while corset-style dresses highlighted structure and femininity. Flowing silks and airy satins further contributed to the collection’s dynamic mix.

(Supplied)

The show was attended by several celebrities and influencers, including “Dubai Bling” star Loujain Adada, Egyptian actress and model Enjy Kiwan, reality TV sisters Nadine and Farah Abdel Aziz, Tunisian model Ameni Esseibi, Emirati actress and TV presenter Mahira Abdel Aziz, Saudi designer and fashion influencer Tamaraah Al-Gabaani, Iraqi fashion blogger Deema Al-Asadi, and Egyptian style star Soha Taha.

The show concluded with Fausto Puglisi, the brand’s new creative director, stepping out to thank the audience.

Founded by the late Roberto Cavalli in the 1970s, the brand quickly became synonymous with Italian luxury and glamor. Roberto Cavalli has long been a staple on international runways and red carpets, and is known for its bold use of tropical patterns and animal prints.


Saudi-supported ‘Front Row’ screens in Toronto

Saudi-supported ‘Front Row’ screens in Toronto
Updated 07 September 2024
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Saudi-supported ‘Front Row’ screens in Toronto

Saudi-supported ‘Front Row’ screens in Toronto

DUBAI: Algerian filmmaker Merzak Allouche’s family dramedy “Front Row,” supported by the Red Sea Fund, screened this week at the 49th Toronto International Film Festival.

Allouche’s 19th feature tells the story of two matriarchs, Zohra Bouderbala and Safia Kadouri, who find themselves in conflict during a day at the beach. Zohra, accompanied by her five children, arrives early to secure a desirable spot, but tension arises when the Kadouri family is placed directly in front of them by a beach attendant.

As the two families engage in a passive-aggressive battle, teenage romance quietly unfolds in the background, adding to the drama.

The film stars Fatiha Ouared as Bouderbala, Bouchra Roy as Kadouri, and Nabil Asli as Hakim, the beach attendant.


Born in Exile unveils ‘nostalgic love letter’ to Libya at Dubai Fashion Week

Born in Exile unveils ‘nostalgic love letter’ to Libya at Dubai Fashion Week
Updated 07 September 2024
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Born in Exile unveils ‘nostalgic love letter’ to Libya at Dubai Fashion Week

Born in Exile unveils ‘nostalgic love letter’ to Libya at Dubai Fashion Week

DUBAI: Fashion label Born in Exile, led by designer Ibrahim Shebani, showcased its latest collection at Dubai Fashion Week in the form of a “nostalgic love letter” to Libya.

Shebani is keen to pay homage to Libya’s culture and heritage through his collections with one of the few high fashion brands to emerge from the country.

“We go back to our traditional dress code. We revamp it (and) we make modern clothing that is inspired from our traditional clothing,” he said before touching on the country’s turbulent recent history.

“Also the geopolitical situation influences our work … In 2014, when the civil war broke out in Libya, we had a beautiful monument in the center of (Tripoli), which was a bronze statue. It was stolen. We had some extremist militias in the city, and they stole it and destroyed it,” Shebani said, referring to an incident in November 2014 in which militants were suspected of removing the statue of a naked woman petting a gazelle.

“That was very heartbreaking to everyone that lived there or was from that city, and that inspired the collection. I think what we really want to say with this collection is that you might take away things, you might destroy some things, but it’s very, very difficult to wipe out the history of a nation.

“So the collection … is really a nostalgic love letter to a place where I lived for 10 years,” he said.

(Supplied)

Shebani was born in Germany and grew up in Egypt and Libya, before relocating to Tunisia, where he currently runs his brand.

The designer praised Tunisia’s homegrown production capabilities, and lamented the common practice of high-end European labels manufacturing leather goods there before placing a “Made in Europe” tag on the product.

“For every single brand you can think of, the bags factories (in Tunisia) produce (the goods). If you do one step in Italy, which is as little as fixing a button on a shirt, you can say it’s made in Italy,” he said, emphasizing the importance of educating potential customers on the realities of where and how luxury goods are made.

“Also, I think one of the biggest problems we have in the region is that the buyers are not very familiar with the regional brands,” Shebani added.

“It’s so much easier just to go to Europe because it’s a nice experience to be in Milan or in Paris,” he said.

Shebani believes the key to unlocking a brighter future for regional designers is to strengthen fashion infrastructure in the region involving all the key players — “it’s designers, plus clients, plus buyers, plus press, there has to be more of us in the region.”


‘Great feeling’ to win for Pakistan, says chocolatier who bagged prestigious French pastry award

‘Great feeling’ to win for Pakistan, says chocolatier who bagged prestigious French pastry award
Updated 07 September 2024
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‘Great feeling’ to win for Pakistan, says chocolatier who bagged prestigious French pastry award

‘Great feeling’ to win for Pakistan, says chocolatier who bagged prestigious French pastry award
  • Lals Pâtisserie, a luxury chocolate shop that opened in Karachi in 2006, won the ‘Pastry Discovery Gem Award 2024’ 
  • Award is given by Paris-based La Liste, world’s most selective global guide of restaurants, pastry shops and hotels

KARACHI: Lal Majid, whose Lals Pâtisserie won the prestigious La Liste ‘Pastry Discovery Gem Award’ 2024, said this week it was a “great feeling” to be the only winner from Pakistan, able to be in a room full of world-renowned chefs in Paris wearing a Pakistan pin and traditional salwar kameez. 
La Liste, the world’s most selective global guide of restaurants, pastry shops and hotels, puts out the awards annually, celebrating the “diversity of talents, the creativity and audacity, education, and the commitment to values such as seasonality and biodiversity.”
This year, the platform announced a total of 25 winners from 14 countries across the world in 10 categories. The Canadian Farine & Cacao pastry shop, which has been named one of the top pâtisseries in the world in the past, Chez Dodo, a charming pastry shop near St. Stephen’s Basilica in Budapest, and Alanya, a pastry shop in Lima’s bohemian Barranco district, also won in the same category as Lals.
Majid got her award at a ceremony held on June 17, 2024, in Paris. She runs the business with her daughter Madiha Sultan Tai, who serves as CEO.
“Till now, I am the first one [from Pakistan to feature on La Liste],” Majid, a florist turned chocolatier, told Arab News in an interview. “We researched if any Pakistani has won this award previously and we learnt that I was the first one to get this award.”
When Majid first started getting email inquiries from La Liste, she thought they were fake.
“I didn’t realize [it was happening] till the time I entered that area,” Majid said, describing the ceremony in Paris where she stood shoulder to shoulder with some of the world’s best chefs and chocolatiers, many of whose creations she had been admiring for years from a distance and whose books she had read and reread.
“I was lucky to get the award. It was all about my pastry [and] my chocolate,” Majid said.
“When it was announced that I was [from] Pakistan, and I was the only one from this area, it was a great feeling, of course. I was wearing my flag. I was wearing my Pakistani shalwar kameez.”
“HANSEL AND GRETEL”
Born and raised in Peshawar, Majid was not very good at studies and got married while she was still in college.
“[As a child,] I loved chocolates. I don’t know why but I was very much inspired by the story of Hansel and Gretel,” Majid said, referring to a German fairy tale in which siblings Hansel and Gretel are abandoned in a forest and fall into the hands of a witch who lives in a bread, cake, and sugar house.
“I always used to dream that I could have a chocolate, biscuit and candy house and I could break [off a piece] and have it myself. But I never thought I’d be able to make a chocolate factory,” the chocolatier said. 
Majid was initially importing chocolate but then started taking classes on how to make it herself.
“I studied and did a lot of courses,” she said. “Then we started making gelatos. We made this [Shahbaz Commercial] outlet. And now, we are making our own chocolate. And the interesting thing is that now our chocolates, except the cocoa mass and cocoa beans which we don’t grow in Pakistan, every ingredient is local and Pakistani.”
Lals has multiple outlets in Karachi and Lahore and in March this year launched an online shop in Dubai, with a small kiosk in a physical outlet also.
“Dubai is a very tough market. It’s very initial so I can’t say anything about the response yet but inshaAllah, soon,” Majid said.
“We are expanding to Islamabad and opening one more outlet in Lahore [soon]. I hope [to launch an outlet] in Peshawar. That’s my hometown. I live in Karachi but my heart is in Peshawar.”


Riyadh-based UK artist Simon Mortimer delves into Saudi pop culture 

Riyadh-based UK artist Simon Mortimer delves into Saudi pop culture 
Updated 06 September 2024
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Riyadh-based UK artist Simon Mortimer delves into Saudi pop culture 

Riyadh-based UK artist Simon Mortimer delves into Saudi pop culture 
  • Simon Mortimer’s mixed-media works exploring Arabic imagery and language are currently on show in Doha 

RIYADH: Inside his apartment in Riyadh, British artist Simon Mortimer experiments with images that explore Saudi Arabia’s current period of transformation. His vibrant creations are filled with references to contemporary Saudi culture through high and low art, with an abundance of Arabic influences.  

In one of the artist’s recent works, a realistic painting of a typewriter on light blue, gray and yellow background is encircled by various signs and symbols from everyday Saudi culture, including an evocative Saudi-based multinational Sharbatly fruit label showing a young boy wearing a red hat. At the top of the work is what appears to be a phrase from another advertisement in Arabic, translating to “For those who don’t know.” On the left-hand side of the typewriter, which Mortimer explains represents the idea of communication, is a cartoon-like depiction of a red falcon with its beak nestled ever so slightly on the machine and a small yellow crown over its head. 

Simon Mortimer. (Supplied)

Mortimer, currently working in Riyadh as an art teacher, is showing works in a new exhibition at the Media Majlis Museum (mm: museum) at Qatar’s Northwestern University titled “The limits of my language are the limits of my world.” It’s a mixed-media exhibition exploring the Arabic language, its historical and contemporary context and questions surrounding its future existence. It runs until Dec. 5. 

Many of Mortimer’s recent works incorporate Arabic writing and the imagery he selects is often repeated throughout his works (the falcon, the Sharbatly logo, coffee pots, and more). He doesn’t speak Arabic, but he says he is “fascinated by the forms of the letters, the culture and the language” and likes to use words with meanings that reflect the subject matter of his pieces. 

“I love to explore the popular culture of a place,” he tells Arab News. “You immediately see these interesting images, logos and adverts. I love the visuals and the aesthetics, and I often don’t understand what they mean, especially when the labels are in Arabic, so I go onto Google Translate to get a better sense of the meaning.” 

'Learn' by Simon Mortimer. (Supplied)

Mortimer moved to Riyadh around a year ago from Doha, where he lived for five years. In the Qatari capital he was an artist-in-residence at the Fire Station, one of Qatar’s leading contemporary art spaces. He has lived in a number of other countries, including the Philippines, Greece and Spain, and has exhibited his work in the UK, Greece, Indonesia, the Philippines and Qatar. 

“I love being a foreigner,” he says. “I love living in different countries and exploring local popular culture. It is interesting whatever country I am in,” explains Mortimer. “Everyday images are combined with text, and the ambiguity that this can lead to reflects the misunderstandings that sometimes arise when living in, or learning about, other countries and cultures. 

'No Limits' triptych by Simon Mortimer. (Supplied)

“I enjoy layering and creating texture with a wide range of media, as well as challenging the concept of ‘high’ and ‘low’ art; traditional ways of mark-making such as oil paint and etching are brought together in the same artwork with modern media such as spray paint and marker pen,” he continues. 

Mortimer’s creative process involves literal and metaphorical layers. He incorporates images and references from Saudi pop-culture, as well as Arabic script, and then merges them in a mixture of traditional oil painting, acrylic, stencils, photocopies, and spray paint. In essence, Mortimer’s works offer the reflections of a non-Arab on present-day Saudi society, as well as his desire to better understand Saudi contemporary culture. 

'Right to Left' by Simon Mortimer. (Supplied)

The new exhibition in Doha invites visitors to explore and celebrate Arabic’s rich history and influence of the Arabic language and to reflect on its place in the future. It revolves around four key themes: “Always another side?” which introduces Arabic and its complexities, challenging negative connotations of the language through beautiful representations; “An influential and powerful language?” exploring how Arabic has shaped politics, science, religion and culture worldwide; “Does media representation matter?” examining the portrayal of Arabic in the media; and the final theme: “Is Arabic a language of the future?” exploring efforts to preserve and protect the language in a world where the ubiquity and dominance of English — particularly in the digital realm, poses challenges. 

Mortimer’s works in the show explore these themes from the viewpoint of a non-Arabic speaker.  They incorporate images from contemporary Arabian society — particularly drawing from his recent experiences in Saudi and Qatar — and Arabic proverbs to explore language, multiculturalism, and education from the perspective of a non-speaker. 

'Round Puff' by Simon Mortimer. (Supplied)

Incorporating local imagery and language into his work allows Mortimer to immerse himself more fully in local culture — and learn something of the language. He says he also learns from, and is inspired by, the Saudi high school students he is teaching.  

“They tell me about the cartoons and the sports they watch and introduce me to popular culture in Saudi and discuss the changes taking place in the Kingdom,” he says. “I’ve learned so much through them.”