MANILA: For the uninitiated, the experience of ube begins with its vividly purple hue. That is often how the tuber native to the Philippines catches the attention of foodies around the globe, as Filipino cooks turn them into the stars of a variety of snacks and desserts, from traditional rice cakes to ice creams and pastries.
From Dubai to LA, ube has featured as a novelty in Filipino-owned restaurants and shops. In the UAE’s commercial capital, visitors can find ube at Kooya Filipino Eatery, which has it in the form of a latte and milkshake, as well as a topping on halo-halo, the Philippines’ beloved shaved ice dessert.
Even in LA, Filipino-American Chef Andre Guerrero has ube milkshake on his menu at The Oinkster, which many credited as one of the first establishments to bring the purple yam into mainstream culinary consciousness in the US.
“We’re so … proud of it, and we should be; when we invite our new communities to try these brightly colored foods from our strange homeland, we’re attaching it to a good memory,” Manila-based food writer Michiko Manalang told Arab News.
For centuries, ube has been part of the Filipino table as a main component of celebratory dishes and special-occasion treats.
Often confused with the taro root, it is an indigenous staple of the Philippines that has a mellow, sweet and earthy flavor, as well as a striking hue. The root vegetable often used in desserts also conveys certain parts of Philippine culture.
Ube halaya, a rich purple jam made from boiled and mashed ube and thickened with coconut milk or condensed milk and butter, is an example. Typically served cold, the festive delicacy is believed to be more modern than widely perceived, as it would require some refrigeration.
“If someone can serve genuine ube halaya, it’s a subtle sign that they’re well-to-do,” Manalang said.
“Ube lends itself well to a lot of themes of Filipino cooking and culture. We’re a colorful bunch and we like our sweets, our rich textures,” she added. “Ube is good and fun on its own, but if I’m being honest, it’s our pride in it and our willingness to share that might be giving it and other Filipino foods that edge."
In the Philippines, local businesses have recently gotten more creative with ube on their menus, as seen in homegrown favorite Lola Nena’s ramp-up of its traditional doughnut offerings with an ube and cheese variant in May, to one of Manila’s new restaurants, TMBrew + Bistro, introducing Ube & Stracciatella Mozzarella in their menu.
Throughout the years, well-loved Filipino pastries have used ube in them, including the sweet, brioche-like pastry known as ensaymada and the dense, mooncake-like pastry of Chinese origin called hopia, said food and lifestyle writer Diane Go.
“When you think of something purple, automatically ube comes to mind, since it is a rare color in food and hard to attain the same vividness that it provides,” she said.
Ube’s eye-catching qualities have made ube a preferred gift item for travelers and migrant workers and offered an introduction to Filipino cooking, Go added.
“People, after all, eat with their eyes, which is why visual appeal is just as important. That’s why ube is usually the pasalubong (souvenir) of choice for foreigners and OFWs (Overseas Filipino Workers), and the first entryway into local cuisine.”
Ube is “considered to be a unique and important dessert item in the Philippines,” said Raymond Macapagal, an assistant professor at the University of the Philippines’ Center for International Studies.
“It can be appreciated on its own or used to give an attractive purple color to other desserts … Ube is almost exclusively used as a dessert in Philippine cuisine. However, there are more recent recipes that have tried to incorporate it into savory (dishes).”
Though ube has been gaining more ground internationally, Macapagal is optimistic that purple yam will retain its Filipino roots.
“Despite other Southeast Asian countries like Thailand having ube or purple yam products, it seems as if ube has been very well-associated with Filipino cuisine,” he said. “So as long as ube is featured in Filipino-themed meals here and abroad, ube will retain its distinct Filipino-ness.”
