London exhibition of MENA artists showcases ‘calligraphy and written language’ 

London exhibition of MENA artists showcases ‘calligraphy and written language’ 
Bita Ghezelayagh’s ‘Pen and Roses.’ (Supplied)
Short Url
Updated 06 October 2023
Follow

London exhibition of MENA artists showcases ‘calligraphy and written language’ 

London exhibition of MENA artists showcases ‘calligraphy and written language’ 
  • Bita Ghezelayagh discusses her ‘Encapsulation’ project, which features in ‘The Resistance of Pen and Paper’ 

LONDON: Iranian artist Bita Ghezelayagh was browsing in an antique shop in Tehran, searching for old textiles to rescue and upcycle into art, when she stumbled upon a different kind of inspiration. 

“I saw all these boxes of pen nibs, hundreds of them,” she tells Arab News. “They were so beautiful, and the dealer was just begging me to buy them: ‘Please, you are an artist, do something with them. They are magnificent, and you won't see this anymore.’” 

For Ghezelayagh, who has built a career on finding the beauty and potential in the disappearing crafts of her country, it was a challenge she couldn’t resist. 




Bita Ghezelayagh’s ‘Encapsulation’ on show in ‘The Resistance of Pen and Paper.’ (Supplied)

Some of the results can now be seen in a new exhibition at the Richard Saltoun Gallery in London’s Mayfair, in “The Resistance of Pen and Paper,” jointly curated by directors Niamh Coghlan and Aloisia Leopardi. The show, which runs until Nov. 4, brings together a group of six artists from North Africa and the Middle East who, in the words of Coghlan, “use calligraphy and written language to reflect on issues around identity, gender politics, cultural heritage and displacement.” 

Shirin Neshat’s photographic series, “Women of Allah,” explores notions of femininity in relation to Islamic fundamentalism and militancy in Iran, “using symbols that are associated with Western representations of the Muslim world: the veil, the gun, the text and the gaze.” 

The work of Nasrollah Afjei, a member of the Iranian neo-calligraphists group, presents “meticulous, structural arrangements of calligraphic forms on a grand painterly scale.” 




Bita Ghezalayagh portrait. (Supplied)

Calligraphy also features in works by Egyptian artists Fathi Hassan and Huda Lufti, and the Palestinian-born Maliheh Afnan. The exhibition includes several works from Afnan’s “Veiled” series from the 2000s, which “aimed to shift the focus of the Western world away from the Muslim women's veil to methods of concealment as a wider concept.”  

Ghezelayagh’s new work is front and center in the exhibition. In addition to an installation of silkscreen-printed calligraphic works — each bearing the stylized image of a pen nib, on embroidered, hand-woven textiles — hundreds of the nibs she transported from obscurity and redundancy in Tehran have found a new, symbolic lease of life, encased in tiles of colored glass and strung on threads by the dozen. 

Not all the nibs in her project — “Encapsulation” — are completely encased; some protrude beyond the confines of the glass. The symbolism is self-explanatory. 

“I talk a lot a lot about censorship and freedom,” says Ghezelayagh. 




Bita Ghezelayagh’s ‘Planet Sun.’ (Supplied)

Born in Florence, Italy, in 1966 to Iranian parents, Ghezelayagh moved to Tehran when she was two years old and frequently travels back to the country from her home in the UK.  

She is best known for her work with textiles, taking traditional garments and old, unloved Persian carpets and transforming them from overlooked everyday objects into admired and highly sought-after works of art. 

It all began 20 years ago when she saw a future for the disappearing craft of felt-making in Iran. “Felt-making was completely dead,” she says. “Nobody was interested in such a practice, which required a lot of pulling and pushing of wet wool. The felt-makers were all old and none of the young boys were interested in coming into the tradition. It was a completely dying craft.” 

Very quickly, she saw potential in the old shepherds’ cloaks and other garments that nobody seemed to want any more, “and very early in my first stage of felt-making I realized that I was going to make art out of it.”  

The magic moment came during a trip to the western Iranian province of Lorestan. “I was in a bazaar and I saw a shepherd's cloak, which was hanging in a tiny little shop, and the shape of it was so to me profoundly beautiful,” Ghezelayagh says. “It was so human, and it started really talking to me, saying ‘Get me out of here!’ So I entered the shop, bought whatever they had, and brought them home.” 

Ghezelayagh’s first solo exhibition, entitled “Felt Memories,” came in London in the summer of 2009. At the time, she said the work “was born of an overwhelming urge I had to preserve something of the old Iran of my childhood.” 

Working with local artisans and Afghan embroiderers living in Iran, Ghezelayagh transformed the simple felt garments into canvasses, decorated with images, calligraphy, and sewn-on symbols of Iranian culture, ancient and modern. One of them was inspired by Ghezelayagh’s memories of the 1980-88 Iran-Iraq war: A cloak adorned with 1,001 of the small metal “keys to paradise” that Iranian soldiers carried into battle, and dozens of small metal tags imprinted with the face of Hossein Kharazi, a national hero killed in 1987 at the siege of Basra. 

The pieces struck a chord in the art world. In 2011, Bita was shortlisted for the Jameel Prize for Islamic Art, and today her textile work can be found in a number of prestigious collections, including those of the British Museum, the Farjam Foundation in Dubai and Jameel Foundation in Saudi Arabia. 


Directors show solidarity with Palestinians during Venice Film Festival speeches

Directors show solidarity with Palestinians during Venice Film Festival speeches
Updated 08 September 2024
Follow

Directors show solidarity with Palestinians during Venice Film Festival speeches

Directors show solidarity with Palestinians during Venice Film Festival speeches

DUBAI: The final ceremony of the Venice Film Festival on Saturday saw multiple winners use their acceptance speeches to express solidarity with the Palestinian people and condemn Israel’s military campaign in Gaza.

“As a Jewish American artist working in a time-based medium, I must note, I’m accepting this award on the 336th day of Israel’s genocide in Gaza and 76th year of occupation,” said US director Sarah Friedland as she accepted the Luigi de Laurentiis prize for best first film for “Familiar Touch.”

“I believe it is our responsibility as filmmakers to use the institutional platforms through which we work to redress Israel’s impunity on the global stage. I stand in solidarity with the people of Palestine and their struggle for liberation,” she continued.

Kathleen Chalfant, Orizzonti Award for Best Actress winner, and Sarah Friedland (R), Lion of the Future – "Luigi De Laurentiis" Venice Award for a Debut Film and the Orizzonti Best Director award winner, pose during a photocall. (AFP) 

The director’s comments were met with strong applause, Deadline reported. Her speech comes amid Israel’s 10-month military campaign in Gaza in which more than 40,000 Palestinians, including more than 16, 000 children, have been killed. The current conflict was sparked by the Oct. 7 Hamas attack on Israel, in which 1,139 were killed, including 36 children.

Palestinian filmmaker Scandar Copti accepted the best screenplay prize in the Horizons section for his films “Happy Holidays.”

“I stand here deeply honored, yet profoundly affected by the difficult times we’re living through over the past 11 months, our shared humanity and moral compass have been tested as we witness the ongoing genocide in Gaza,” he said on stage.

“This painful reality reminds us of the devastating consequences of oppression, which is a theme in our film. Our film looks at how moral narratives can bring us together as communities, but also blind us to the suffering of others.”

Meanwhile, “The Room Next Door,” Pedro Almodóvar’s English-language debut starring Julianne Moore and Tilda Swinton, topped the Venice Film Festival and was awarded its Golden Lion award.

 


‘Colonizer to colonized’: Pakistani photographer travels from London to Quetta ‘without flying’

‘Colonizer to colonized’: Pakistani photographer travels from London to Quetta ‘without flying’
Updated 08 September 2024
Follow

‘Colonizer to colonized’: Pakistani photographer travels from London to Quetta ‘without flying’

‘Colonizer to colonized’: Pakistani photographer travels from London to Quetta ‘without flying’
  • Danial Shah’s 58-day-journey brought him home to Quetta via trains, ferries, buses and taxis at a cost of $2,509
  • Historic Quetta-London Road was once a popular route for international tourists and considered a ‘gateway’ to Europe

QUETTA: Earlier this year, Danial Shah, a Pakistani photographer and filmmaker currently pursuing a doctorate in visual and performing arts in Brussels, got an idea: to travel from the land of the colonizer, Britain, which had ruled the Indian subcontinent from 1858 to 1947, to the land that was colonized, present day Pakistan — but without flying.

Thus began a journey that took him from London to the southwestern Pakistani town of Quetta, the city of his birth, via trains, ferries, buses and taxis at a cost of $2,509.

“I wanted to start my journey from London, the reason is that Britain ruled our country for a long time, colonized us and it is Britain that gives us [Pakistanis] visas with great difficulty,” Shah, a 35-year-old documentary filmmaker and photographer, told Arab News in an interview in Quetta.

Pakistani photographer and backpacker Danial Shah, who travelled from London to Quetta in 58 days via trains, ferries, buses and taxis, uses his phone in a street in Quetta on September 3, 2024, during an interview with Arab News. (AN Photo)

“So I thought if I get a visa, I will start my journey from the place where the colonizer lives and reach the place which they colonized.”

Spending his early childhood in Quetta, Shah was always thrilled by the stories of foreign travelers who frequented the area and often arrived using what was dubbed the historic Quetta-London Road, once a popular route for international tourists and considered a ‘gateway’ to Europe.

“I often used to see foreigners here and when you asked someone their story, they would say, ‘We have come from Germany, from London, traveling through Turkiye and Iran’,” Shah said. “So, when I found time, I thought I should go on this journey also.”

This map, shared by Pakistani photographer and backpacker Danial Shah, shows his journey from London to Quetta. Shah’s 58-day-journey brought him home to Quetta via trains, ferries, buses and taxis at a cost of $2,509. (Photo courtesy: Danial Sheikh)

Frequent public commuting through the Quetta-London route, stretching over thousands of miles, began after the end of World War I and people even used it to travel to Saudi Arabia to perform Hajj, according to Dr. Irfan Ahmed Baig, a Quetta-based historian and author of the Urdu-language book ‘Quetta My City.’ European tourists choose the route to enter Turkiye via Greece and continued onwards to the Middle East and Asia. The route was diverted to Central Asia from Afghanistan, from where to leads to India and Bangladesh via Pakistan.

“A Quetta-London bound bus service was started in the 1950 but it was suspended due to unknown reasons,” Baig told Arab News. “During the Soviet Union’s incursion on Afghanistan, tourist movement through this route declined due to security reasons.”

Shah’s journey through a stretch of the route also did not come without difficulty as he faced strict border security checks on account of holding a Pakistani passport, considered one of the weakest travel documents according to global rankings, and amid fears about human smuggling and illegal migration.

This photo, posted on August 11, 2024 on Instagram, shows Pakistani photographer and backpacker Danial Shah, who travelled from London to Quetta in 58 days via trains, ferries, buses and taxis, at the Albania Museum in Tirana, Albania. (Photo courtesy: Danial Shah)

“At various border crossing points, I was the only one off-boarded from buses and questioned by border security forces,” he said.

But he powered on and the journey that began in London on July 3 took him through Europe, the Balkans and the Middle East, to Pakistan’s Balochistan province on August 21.

“From London, I traveled to France. From France, I went to Italy, where I took a boat to Croatia. From Croatia, I went to Serbia, Serbia to Bosnia, and from Bosnia to Montenegro, Albania,” the University of Antwerp student said.

“From Albania, I entered Greece. Then I took a boat from Greece to Turkiye and from Turkiye I took a bus to Iran. From Iran I traveled through buses and taxis and reached Pakistan.”

He said he was grateful for the people he met along the way and the hospitality and warmth he was offered.

“I enjoyed Bosnia the most, followed by Albania, and then Turkiye and Iran, because their manner of hospitality is similar to our Quetta,” Shah said.

His next plan is to save up for journeys to ever new countries and cultures.

This photo, posted on August 22, 2024 on Instagram, shows Pakistani photographer and backpacker Danial Shah, who travelled from London to Quetta in 58 days via trains, ferries, buses and taxis, in Iran. (Photo courtesy: Danial Shah)

“I wish to plan a year-long journey after saving some money to see more countries and additional stay,” Shah said, “because I met many people who were on the same route but traveling to Central Asia via Iran and Afghanistan to Vietnam.”


Roberto Cavalli closes Dubai Fashion Week with bold animal prints, vibrant hues

Roberto Cavalli closes Dubai Fashion Week with bold animal prints, vibrant hues
Updated 07 September 2024
Follow

Roberto Cavalli closes Dubai Fashion Week with bold animal prints, vibrant hues

Roberto Cavalli closes Dubai Fashion Week with bold animal prints, vibrant hues

DUBAI: The Italian luxury label Roberto Cavalli closed out Dubai Fashion Week this week with a presentation of its spring/summer 2025 collection, marking the brand’s first showcase in the Middle East.

Models descended onto the runway against a backdrop featuring the brand’s signature golden emblem. The runway was framed by a textured wall, with lighting that emphasized the collection.

The show kicked off with a powerful display of bold black-and-white printed outfits, featuring eye-catching patterns reminiscent of animal motifs, setting the stage for what was to come.

(Supplied)

The models strutted down the runway in long, structured coats and tailored suits, complemented by wide-brimmed hats and high boots.

Sleek tailored suits, glamorous mini-dresses, and flowing gowns reflected a mix of modern sophistication and bold statement pieces.

As the collection progressed, the color palette began to shift from monochromatic tones to vibrant hues, starting with a bold introduction of bright greens. Flowing pleated dresses and figure-hugging designs in various shades of green took center stage.

 (Instagram)

The green hues were followed by striking pinks and deep reds, with rose patterns adorning halter-neck dresses and flowing gowns.

In addition to the vivid colors, the collection featured a variety of textures. A standout piece was a fuchsia snake-patterned suit. Pleated fabrics added movement, while corset-style dresses highlighted structure and femininity. Flowing silks and airy satins further contributed to the collection’s dynamic mix.

(Supplied)

The show was attended by several celebrities and influencers, including “Dubai Bling” star Loujain Adada, Egyptian actress and model Enjy Kiwan, reality TV sisters Nadine and Farah Abdel Aziz, Tunisian model Ameni Esseibi, Emirati actress and TV presenter Mahira Abdel Aziz, Saudi designer and fashion influencer Tamaraah Al-Gabaani, Iraqi fashion blogger Deema Al-Asadi, and Egyptian style star Soha Taha.

The show concluded with Fausto Puglisi, the brand’s new creative director, stepping out to thank the audience.

Founded by the late Roberto Cavalli in the 1970s, the brand quickly became synonymous with Italian luxury and glamor. Roberto Cavalli has long been a staple on international runways and red carpets, and is known for its bold use of tropical patterns and animal prints.


Saudi-supported ‘Front Row’ screens in Toronto

Saudi-supported ‘Front Row’ screens in Toronto
Updated 07 September 2024
Follow

Saudi-supported ‘Front Row’ screens in Toronto

Saudi-supported ‘Front Row’ screens in Toronto

DUBAI: Algerian filmmaker Merzak Allouche’s family dramedy “Front Row,” supported by the Red Sea Fund, screened this week at the 49th Toronto International Film Festival.

Allouche’s 19th feature tells the story of two matriarchs, Zohra Bouderbala and Safia Kadouri, who find themselves in conflict during a day at the beach. Zohra, accompanied by her five children, arrives early to secure a desirable spot, but tension arises when the Kadouri family is placed directly in front of them by a beach attendant.

As the two families engage in a passive-aggressive battle, teenage romance quietly unfolds in the background, adding to the drama.

The film stars Fatiha Ouared as Bouderbala, Bouchra Roy as Kadouri, and Nabil Asli as Hakim, the beach attendant.


Born in Exile unveils ‘nostalgic love letter’ to Libya at Dubai Fashion Week

Born in Exile unveils ‘nostalgic love letter’ to Libya at Dubai Fashion Week
Updated 07 September 2024
Follow

Born in Exile unveils ‘nostalgic love letter’ to Libya at Dubai Fashion Week

Born in Exile unveils ‘nostalgic love letter’ to Libya at Dubai Fashion Week

DUBAI: Fashion label Born in Exile, led by designer Ibrahim Shebani, showcased its latest collection at Dubai Fashion Week in the form of a “nostalgic love letter” to Libya.

Shebani is keen to pay homage to Libya’s culture and heritage through his collections with one of the few high fashion brands to emerge from the country.

“We go back to our traditional dress code. We revamp it (and) we make modern clothing that is inspired from our traditional clothing,” he said before touching on the country’s turbulent recent history.

“Also the geopolitical situation influences our work … In 2014, when the civil war broke out in Libya, we had a beautiful monument in the center of (Tripoli), which was a bronze statue. It was stolen. We had some extremist militias in the city, and they stole it and destroyed it,” Shebani said, referring to an incident in November 2014 in which militants were suspected of removing the statue of a naked woman petting a gazelle.

“That was very heartbreaking to everyone that lived there or was from that city, and that inspired the collection. I think what we really want to say with this collection is that you might take away things, you might destroy some things, but it’s very, very difficult to wipe out the history of a nation.

“So the collection … is really a nostalgic love letter to a place where I lived for 10 years,” he said.

(Supplied)

Shebani was born in Germany and grew up in Egypt and Libya, before relocating to Tunisia, where he currently runs his brand.

The designer praised Tunisia’s homegrown production capabilities, and lamented the common practice of high-end European labels manufacturing leather goods there before placing a “Made in Europe” tag on the product.

“For every single brand you can think of, the bags factories (in Tunisia) produce (the goods). If you do one step in Italy, which is as little as fixing a button on a shirt, you can say it’s made in Italy,” he said, emphasizing the importance of educating potential customers on the realities of where and how luxury goods are made.

“Also, I think one of the biggest problems we have in the region is that the buyers are not very familiar with the regional brands,” Shebani added.

“It’s so much easier just to go to Europe because it’s a nice experience to be in Milan or in Paris,” he said.

Shebani believes the key to unlocking a brighter future for regional designers is to strengthen fashion infrastructure in the region involving all the key players — “it’s designers, plus clients, plus buyers, plus press, there has to be more of us in the region.”