JEDDAH: A pioneering Saudi craftsman is challenging a new generation to step up and preserve the time-honored skills that go into making zubairi — the traditional Arabic sandals known as madas sharqi.
Youssif Hussain Albouhussain, 86, has been making the distinctive footwear for over 70 years since learning the craft from his father as a teenager.
“Zubairi making was his skill and what he did all his life to make a living,” the veteran craftsman told Arab News during a visit to the historic Al-Qaisariya souq in Al-Ahsa.
Albouhussain said that the craft helps keep the country’s heritage alive and can provide a good living — but he fears the skill may soon be lost if it is not preserved by the next generation.
“I am sad to tell you that none of my sons has acquired this skill. They all occupy good positions in modern life, but come to help me in the factory during Eid and national holidays because of the increase in demand,” he said.
Madas sharqi translates roughly as “sandal from the east” because the footwear originated in the east-central region of the Kingdom. The sandals feature a ring of leather that wraps around the large toe and a leather shield that covers the outer side of the foot. The shield is often adorned with embroidered patterns that vary from region to region.
The 150-year-old Al-Qaisariya souq in Al-Ahsa in the Eastern Province is home to many Saudi traditional handicrafts, including the making of zubairi, and serves as gathering place for jewelers, apothecaries, potters and cobblers.
Zubairi are popular among Saudi men from all walks of life, from royalty down, and are commonly seen at both casual and formal occasions.
The handmade sandals are made from different types of natural leather, including camel, calf and goat. In some modern styles, snake and crocodile skin is also used.
“Back in the old days, we used to make the leather ourselves. Now we import high-quality leather from Pakistan, then apply some coloring if needed,” Albouhussain said.
The traditional craftsman also makes customized styles for his clients, who travel from around the Kingdom and beyond to shop at his factory.
“We do some ready-to-wear classic zubairi models for immediate buying and distribution, but we also make bespoke zubairi based on clients’ preferences, including different materials and models.”
Producing a pair of zubairi sandals requires a high degree of skill and manual dexterity. Albouhussain has five specialists in his workshop who produce from 20 to 25 pairs per day, with each piece requiring a full working hour. Locally manufactured sandals feature five knots to add strength and give the footwear its distinctive shape, he explained.
Customers seeking a vintage look also visit the shop to add a support layer and help their purchases last longer.
The sandals have three main sections, including “the ear,” where four toes are inserted, the “coffin” or insole cushion, and the hole into which the large toe is inserted.
“Zubairi usually come in a flat regular height with a single-layer leather outsole,” Albouhussain said. “But some men ask for a raised heel that also works as back support and adds more stiffness to the piece.”
Sandals with traditional embroidery are highly prized among Albouhussain’s customers, with brown, red, and black leather also in high demand.
“Most of the factory orders are for the traditional zubairi, which has a calf leather upper, a camel leather insole, and is embroidered with different materials.
Customers come from as far as Kuwait, Qatar and Bahrain in order to buy a pair of original zubairi. “Although the sandals have evolved into more modern shapes and designs, the traditional design is still in high demand,” said Albouhussain.
The sandal-maker displays his traditional offerings every year at the Janadriyah festival, and sees it as his “duty to preserve and revive this national heritage.” Abdullah Al-Homoud, one of Albouhussain’s loyal customers, often travels from Riyadh to Al-Qaisariya souq to choose a pair of traditional zubairi sandals. “Zubairi have a special authentic touch that complements my traditional style,” he told Arab News. “There are so many new zubairi-like models, but nothing can compare to the original oriental design.”
