Looking up an old love, food, on a historic street in Pakistan’s Karachi

People eat food at Super Shaheen Shinwari, a restaurant on Burns Road, Karachi, Pakistan, on February 2, 2020. (AN Photo)
Short Url
  • A hub of food in the port city, Burns Road had lost its appeal in recent years due to traffic congestion and decaying buildings
  • A government decision last month to close the street to vehicular traffic and recent restoration works are bringing loyal customers back

KARACHI: An iconic street in Karachi, for decades the hub of traditional foods in the port city, had lost its appeal, and thousands of customers, in recent years due to traffic congestion and decaying buildings.




Top shot of the Burns Road food street in Karachi, Pakistan, on February 2, 2021. (AN Photo)

But a government decision last month to close Burns Road to vehicular traffic and carry out restoration and renovation works along the 200-meter street are bringing clients back.
Named after British spy-doctor James Burnes, who served the Raj in the first half of the 19th century in Sindh, the street is lined with colonial-era buildings and stalls that offer some of the city’s most famous food items: Fresco’s Dahi Baray, Food Center’s Biryani, Agha’s Saltish Sajji, Mazedar’s Haleem, Waheed’s Nihari and Delhi’s Gola Kabab. And once you’ve gorged on the hot, sour and savory options, there are also many varieties of traditional deserts, sweetened milks and ice creams to try.




A man fries jalebi, a Middle Eastern sweet, at a restaurant on Burns Road, Karachi, Pakistan, on February 2, 2020. (AN Photo)

“Burns Road has always been known for its delicious food,” Murtaza Wahab, spokesperson for the provincial government told Arab News, saying traffic congestion was the main reason many clients had abandoned their favorite spots on the street.
“Unfortunately, it was never before officially declared as a food Street,” he said, explaining the government’s recent decision to formally launch the area as a food street from Fresco Chowk all the way to Fatima Jinnah Women’s College, with traffic closed off from 7pm onwards.
Muhammad Saeed, a manager at Food Center, famous for its biryani, said the new measures had brought Burns Road back to life.




A chef prepares food outside a restaurant on Burns Road, Karachi, Pakistan, on February 2, 2020. (AN Photo)

“It’s the oldest and most popular street,” he said. “Unfortunately, it lost its charm as we saw the opening of new eateries almost in every corner of the city. But once again we see that old Burns Road back.”
“I have come from Rawalpindi specially to eat Waheed’s Nihari,” Raja Asim said. “I would recommend it to everyone.”




People eat at Waheed Restaurant, a famous restaurant on Burns Road food street in Karachi, Pakistan, on February 2, 2020. (AN Photo)

Indeed, Wahab said, the highlight of Burns Road was that it had something for everyone. 
“You go to Cafe Laziz, the barbeque of Café Laziz is fantastic. You want to have biryani, Food Center is over there; you want to have Sajji, you have Sajji places here,” he said. “It has all sorts of things.”