Greece in a lower gear for tourism

Our holiday plans prior to the Covid-19 pandemic were to go further afield this summer. The aim was a straightforward one; to explore the Eastern Cycladic islands of Greece, far beyond the mega destinations of Mykonos, Santorini and Paros.
We yearned to go to the less developed islands which would recall visits during our days as university students, when the country had that frontier feeling — less discovered, less crowded and therefore more distinctive.
Amid COVID-19 obstacles, the itinerary that we originally constructed dovetailed nicely with the new reality we suddenly faced. The islands chosen, the mountainous and mysterious Amorgos and the pristine beaches and waters of nearby Koufonisia were exactly what the doctor ordered. Neither had a single Covid-19 case because both were, for the most part, cut off from the mainland during the height of the pandemic.
The government of Prime Minister Kyriakos Mitsotakis was quick to put into place strict measures to limit the spread of the virus, a move largely applauded by Greeks and recognized internationally for its sound management. Athens thereafter took the safe route when deciding to re-open to tourism by following the recommendations put forward by Brussels, opening to other European Union members and a limited number of international destinations, with a major tourism effort from July 1.
The sector is vital to the Greek economy, representing about one-fifth of GDP. Prior to COVID-19, the country was hoping to surpass the record 34 million visitors achieved in 2019 and over $20 billion in revenues. It was admittedly a tough balancing act for any government, which wanted to protect its citizens but at the same time try to capture whatever growth possible during the deepest global recession in nearly a century.
In July, the managing director of our hotel on Amorgos said the island looked like it did 20 years ago, before Greece became an international hotspot. Bookings were running less than 50 percent for the first two weeks of the month and she was hoping for 80 percent occupancy in August.
So our experience was selfishly idyllic, a stark contrast to our two previous summer visits, when it felt like we were struggling for space on high-speed ferries, on beaches and in cafes. This time, we shared pristine beaches with mainly Greek nationals and stylish French and Italian tourists and were never turned away from a taverna.
Our climb up to Amorgos’s 11th century Hozoviotissa monastery was dream-like because we could talk with guides about the 5th-century icon of the Virgin Mary that came from Palestine without being shuffled out to accommodate throngs of others waiting to come in. Similarly, a few days later, we were the only visitors to the Aghios Giorgios Valsamitis monastery further to the south.

There was such a surge in tourism over the past decade that historic city centers in Europe have been hollowed out.

John Defterios

As we transferred to the smaller but increasingly fashionable destination of Koufonisia and the first week of August was upon us, one could see the doors to Greece had opened a bit wider. A traditional seafood restaurant which was pleasantly active and served great, simple cuisine had become overwhelmed during our second visit as the owner tried to squeeze in as many tables as possible on what was a quaint waterfront.
What is normally a four-month summer season has been reduced to four weeks and those dependent on tourism were scrambling to make up for lost time. Reports of last-minute bookings from Britain and Germany to round out August provided a sense of relief to those in this Cycladic dreamland, but it also begs the question if there is a “third way” to strike the right balance of tourism volume while not overwhelming a country.
This is especially true for Greece and other high-volume European destinations that repeatedly show up in the top five global rankings such as France, the UK and Italy. There was such a surge in tourism over the past decade that historic city centers in these countries have been hollowed out to make way for short-term rentals.
In 2019, a record 4.5 billion travelers took to the skies globally for leisure and business, more than doubling in 15 years. Travel and tourism generated just under $3 trillion in direct revenues and employed one in ten jobs worldwide according to the World Travel and Tourism Council. In the Middle East, scores are employed in tourism, which in turn send vital remittances back to places such as Egypt, Lebanon, Jordan and the Philippines.
That has all been turned upside down by COVID-19. Airlines and cruise line companies have been cut down to size to adapt to a “new normal” which is still being defined. As prized destinations such as Greece heal from the shock of the pandemic, should they go back to the heady days of break-neck bookings, strained infrastructure and a “grow at all cost mentality”?
Employers and employees who work in the industry would overwhelmingly say yes. Those like us, who have gone to the country for decades and enjoyed a more measured experience this time around, would suggest that we could all learn a lesson from this pandemic — Greece in a lower gear may be just right.

• John Defterios is CNN Business emerging markets editor and anchor based in Abu Dhabi.
Twitter: @JDefteriosCNN