Bali in Indonesia has been the dream resort of most Europeans, Americans and Australians since the past century. It was glamorized by the Dutch who colonized Indonesia for so long that few people expected them to quit at all. In fact they only quit after their dreadful defeat in the World War II by the all-powerful Japanese forces and the decision of the British government to leave India in l947. So they had to go after nearly 500 years of occupation and unbelievable depletion of wealth and resources.
In a few years, the leader of liberation Sukarno made the country better known although he hastily espoused Marxist ideology and turned into a Third World leader together with Egypt’s Nasser and India’s Nehru. But the fabulously wealthy country remained practically undeveloped just as India and Egypt were. Political turbulence followed independence as the Dutch, unlike the more benevolent British colonialists in India, had abandoned it to its fate with very little development and even less modern education and industry.
Sukarno was no better and was a demagogue more than an enlightened leader who could have lifted his country to higher grounds in spite of centuries of Dutch neglect.
However, the Dutch made Bali the most famous name in Indonesia because it was and still is one of the finest summer resorts in the world. Even in the country’s so-called winter it is extremely pleasant and a dream place to escape to from the humdrum of western and oriental cities.
I realized its greatness, peace and tranquility as soon as I landed at its airport from Kuala Lumpur. Within minutes we were cleared at the airport courtesy of the Grand Hyatt hotel where we had reserved two rooms. The hotel was not only a destination in its own right but one of the finest in the island. In a few minutes we arrived there only to be told with abject apologies that there was a mistake and our rooms had been given to some others. One of my sons did not like what he heard and made some noise threatening to go to the general manager. But someone stepped in and solved the problem amicably by offering us two lovely suites facing the sea while offering the garden and swimming pool. In fact the whole hotel was a holiday resort, it contained almost everything we wanted and had expected. It was packed with residents and visitors from other hotels and part of the island, which had been one of the oldest sections of Bali, has been described by many western newspapers and tourist agencies to be the finest piece of territory in Indonesia, which is one of the most beautiful countries in Asia. It is turning out to be one of the fastest developing in the so-called Third World. Had it not been obscenely neglected by the Dutch and subsequent national regimes it would have been as well advanced today as the Tigers and probably a little more.
Because of its popularity in the West and Australia and now increasingly in Japan, South Korea, and Taiwan, Bali has developed into a tourist paradise if you prefer the sea and sun in addition to the usual assets that go with such places. But if, like me you would rather visit green and mountainous destinations, so much sea and sand may not be altogether attractive all the time.
Right opposite our hotel there was an open air restaurant packed with thousands of people who seldom sat in their chairs as they preferred to walk around, sing and dance whatever they wanted while the waiters offered food.
As there is not much shopping to do and the cost of food is reasonable. Bali is not a costly holiday place. With four million and two hundred thousand people, mainly indigenous Hindus, and an area of only 5750 square kms or 2,230 square miles, it is not congested as we could see while walking from the hotel to the town center with plenty of temples standing alongside mosques as the majority of people in the country are Muslims. It’s history dates back to 2000 years ago as it was inhabited by people who migrated originally from southeast Asia. Its culture according to its history was influenced by Chinese and Indian, particularly Hinduism, until Islam entered the country and was overwhelmingly embraced until this day.
The first European contact with Bali occurred in 1585 when a Portuguese ship foundered on the Bukit Peninsula. The Dutch arrived a few years later and with the Dutch East Indian company, like the British East India Company, the stage was set for one of the longest colonial eras in the world.
The island itself can be covered fairly quickly either together with other tourists or through the hotels, which are some of the best in the country. From the island it is easy to travel to other parts of Indonesia including a visit to the capital Jakarta. That is if you want to see more in addition to Bali but most of those who arrive in Bali are understandably reluctant to leave it for the sake of modern cities like their own or those in the rest of Asia. To them Bali is good enough as it is the destination of choice because it offers the sun, sea, fish, decent night life and a tourist haven at a price you can afford.
- Farouk Luqman is an eminent journalist based in Jeddah
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