Bab Al-Yemen: gateway to hospitality

Countries at historical crossroads of trade routes typically enjoy a rich culture with influence from many civilizations reflected in the local cuisine. Yemen is no exception to this. Although located on the Arabian Peninsula, the Yemeni cuisine differs remarkably from its neighbors’. The Ottoman, Indian, and Egyptian cuisine all left their marks on Yemeni food, which is characterized by straightforward dishes spiced up with ginger, fenugreek, saffron, cumin, and cardamom, to mention but a few.
A second characteristic of Yemen is its hospitality. It is said that old tribesmen living in remote areas of the country would shoot over your head if you passed without stopping to sample their hospitality. As is the case with Arabs from other countries, your notion of generosity will likely change once you have had the opportunity to visit a Yemeni’s house.
These two features of Yemen — its cuisine and hospitality — in addition to the number of Yemenis living in Saudi Arabia would make one presume that the Kingdom boasts an abundant number of Yemeni restaurants. The reality is different: Although one can find Yemeni food without too much difficulty in the big cities, most places are take-away or fast-food outlets — not places you would take your family or friends to for a pleasant evening out. However, this changed with the arrival of the first refined Yemeni restaurant in Jeddah, Bab Al-Yemen, located in Al-Zahra district. Some two and a half years later, the “Gate of Yemen” has become a favorite among Saudis and expatriates alike. With the recent opening of a restaurant in Riyadh and more branches planned in the near future, Yemeni cuisine is conquering its deserved spot in the Kingdom’s restaurant scene.
The restaurant’s exterior — a haven in traditional Yemeni style — reveals that no effort has been spared to ensure authenticity, unlike many other ethnic restaurants in town. Enter Bab Al-Yemen through the stained glass doors and discover its interior, decorated with traditional utensils and pictures of the country’s capital Sanaa as well as Yemeni miniature houses. The big vintage sofas and chairs — albeit a bit smudgy — make you want to submerge yourself in them, and the dim light gives the place a homey ambience.
In all likelihood, you will be led to your table by smiling waiters who are ready to assist you while choosing your orders, as the menu’s description of the dishes is somewhat sketchy for people unfamiliar with Yemeni cuisine. Guests are welcomed with Maraq, a complimentary meat broth Yemenis eat at the beginning of the meal, served with some lemon to squeeze into the soup. Three sauces will also be presented at the start of your meal, to add to the soup, salad and stews, or simply scoop up with bread. The green Hulba sauce, made of mashed fenugreek, is added to practically all savory foods in Yemen. However, it will most likely take you a while to accustom your taste buds to the peculiar taste. The other sauces — a cheese sauce with base of tomato, and a red, spicy tomato sauce — are much more accessible, as is the rest of the food.
One of Yemen’s national dishes and a favorite among customers is Salta, a meat stew in a sauce of tomato and other vegetables served with rice. The dish, as many other stews, is prepared in the traditional “maghash”, a black, stone pot made from mountain soil, which gives the stew a distinctive flavor.
Fahsah is a dish of good quality, tender veal cooked in the maghash with spices, potatoes and onions. It is one of the spicier dishes Bab Al-Yemen serves, together with the Laham (meat) and Chicken Okda.
Despite the extensive list of main dishes, most of them are very similar — either meat or chicken, cooked as a stew in the maghash with tomato sauce and Yemeni spices. Several include potatoes or onions, and some are spicier than others. However, the quality of meat is excellent. The Liver Maghash deserves special attention, as it is not at all chewy and cooked in a tasty tomato and onion sauce. Furthermore, the restaurant offers fresh fish and seafood dishes of outstanding quality.
Most meals don’t come with rice or bread, but these can be ordered for a reasonable price. The rice is prepared with fragrant spices, raisins, and topped with caramelized onions, and the Malawah bread is something else. This Yemeni flat bread, sprinkled with black cumin seeds, comes straight out of the “taboon” or tandoor oven to be served on your table hot and crispy on the edges while soft on the inside.
To add some greens to your meal, order a salad, such as the arugula salad. Also highly recommended is their Bamiya — okra cooked in a tomato sauce — as well as the Middle Eastern viscous green broth Molokhia. To neutralize the spicy element in the main dishes, try the Shafoot, a classic dish of yogurt with herbs and lahooh, a spongy, pancake-like bread.
As for drinks, Bab Al-Yemen’s options are the usual fresh orange juice, lemon with mint, or sodas. An exception is the fresh white or red raisin juice. For this drink, raisins are boiled for approximately one hour in water. Then, the liquid is strained, sugar is added, and the juice is cooled in the freezer. The result is a smooth, sweet juice that perfectly accompanies a spicy meal.
Bab Al-Yemen’s desserts are similar to traditional Saudi sweets. Their Arika, a tower of dates mixed with dough and covered with cream, honey and cheese, will certainly leave you stuffed, so sharing is advised. The same goes for the exceptional Marsa, which resembles Masoob — a mixture of bread, banana, honey and cream — but comes without the heavy cream.
Accompany the sweet end of your meal with Adani Tea. Whether you like it or not, the milk tea with a mix of ginger, nutmeg and cardamom is unquestionably a must-try.
So, next time you feel like trying something different but refined and you come across Bab Al-Yemen, why not enter and try out its exotic cuisine? With the restaurant’s Jeddah branch seating up to 110 guests between the single and family section, you will certainly find a free spot. And after all, you don’t want to risk being shot over your head passing the restaurant without entering.

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