Nirvana’s ‘Come as you are, as you were, as I want you to be / as a friend, as a friend, as an old enemy ...’ was the exciting opening song for Elie Saab’s Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2015/2016 show. The song was as powerful as Elie Saab’s feminine designs.
The inspiration for Elie Saab’s collection comes from heritage and chronicles — a personal history, from the moment Elie Saab started until now.
His work of that era, of delicately embroidered gowns in signature shades of gold, continues to symbolize the core DNA of Elie Saab, the starting point for his designs that are devoted to the beauty of women.
Shades of gold, jewel tones and the ancient Byzantine Palaces — there were a few amazing pieces I have to say, however, some of the dresses looked familiar.
The handworked dresses with the beautiful embroidery, delicate lace appliqués and bead work were stunning. The gowns were full with empire waist lines and some of the dresses had details of mink.
The dresses were all floor length and the collection included two jump suits in shades of burgundy and gold.
The fabrics were light and fluid consisting of delicate lace, chiffon, crêpe de chine, silk tulle and fur. All these soft dresses were in jewel tones of gold, burgundy, green, light blue and blush pink; there were a few black dresses with floral details as well.
The dresses had thin belts highlighting the waist.
Models wore flat sandals and open-toe heels while their headbands were embellished with crystals and fur.
The finale was the traditional wedding gown and no surprises — it was all gold! In 1990, Claudine Saab (Elie Saab’s wife) walked down the aisle in a golden Elie Saab wedding gown, it was a tribute to their 25th anniversary on July 4 — a moment that inspired Saab. The collection was about love, the love that brought Elie and Claudine together.
That same day Elie Saab celebrated the opening of his second shop in Paris.
Who is Elie Saab?
At the tender age of 8 Lebanese couturier Elie Saab showed his love for fashion born and raised in Beirut; Saab is self taught at the age of 18 he moved to Paris to study fashion but he returned to Beirut shortly to open his first atelier that specialised in wedding gowns in 1982.
Word of mouth spread about him in Beirut, socialites and politicians wives started wearing his label; Saab became a member of the Italian Camera Nazionale della moda (The National Chamber for Italian Fashion) is an Association which disciplines, co-ordinates and promotes the development of Italian Fashion that was created by the Centro Romano Alta Moda (The Centre for Haute Couture in Rome) Saab was the first non-Italian designer to join.
He showed his Premier collection in Rome in 1997 and his first Pret-a- porter in Milan a year later; he dressed Queen Rania of Jordan for her enthronement and became a big deal when he dresses Halle Berry for the oscars… that night she won.
In 2003 he got invited by the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture to show during Haute couture week "The Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture whose members include only those companies designated as Haute Couture houses.”
"Haute Couture is a legally protected and controlled label that can only be used by the fashion houses which have been granted the designation by the French Ministry of Industry. The group of companies that enjoy the Haute Couture label is reviewed annually” (I got this form their website)
Saab joined the Association and became one of the few couturier in the world.
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