Hatem Al-Akeel: Revolutionizing the humble thobe

Knowledge is key in the fashion industry. Knowing what works and what doesn’t is what helps improve a designer in their quest for innovative designs. Inspired by different cultures, attentive to the latest in the fashion world and keen on details is what defines Hatem Al-Akeel. Coming from no background in design, he ventured in the world with his creativity at hand, not wanting to be known as only a Saudi or regional thobe designer, but is aspiring to be a global designer.
The thobe has long been an Arab tradition for centuries, whether you call it thobe, dishdasha, kandura or jalabiya, the common factor is in the comfort that dons the thobe. The modernization of the Arab world has not changed the fact that the “go to” dress code has always been and will always be the thobe. Many designers have tried their luck in creating new edgy styles for the thobe, experimenting with colors, designs and fabrics, but few ventured with originality.
A globe trotter and wanderer, Hatem’s designs reflect upon his diverse travel destinations and upbringing, spread between Saudi Arabia, Switzerland and Boston and he now resides between Jeddah and Dubai. Toby by Hatem Al-Akeel was launched in 2006 with Hatem’s signature style, crisp clean lines and silhouettes best suited for the men of the region.
He opened his first Toby store in Jeddah in 2007. Since his launch, Toby has grabbed the attention of many due to the designer’s ability to mix and fuse different regional traditional garbs from Kuwait, Bahrain, Oman, Emirate and Saudi Arabia producing garbs that are new and interesting. He has now spread out to Europe and reached all the way to Hollywood as celebrities have donned his designs. The designs have since expanded, a ready wear men’s line with crisp cut defined dress shirts, a junior’s line for all those young men looking to copy their father’s style, a women’s line with light fabrics and simply sophisticated designs great for day looks and night looks and his signature thobe line. Just this last December, Hatem’s achievements have granted him a “Forbes leaders Inspiring Entrepreneurial Elite Award”, awarded by the Governor of Riyadh, HRH Prince Turki bin Abdullah.
Toby first launched in 2006-2007 and has expanded and literally spread out all over the GCC area and is now available worldwide as well. Hatem has faced many highs and lows throughout his career but the lows were the key factor for the designer to appreciate the highs, not only has he grown as a designer, but his horizons have also grown significantly. Creativity has helped teach Hatem that it is crucial to combine a good business acumen with creativity, they both go together and can’t do without one another, a recipe for success. Hatem has not restricted himself to thobes only, he has expanded his horizons, expanded his line, his creativity takes hold of him and thus creates new designs that are surely not disappointing any.
Arab News caught up with the founder of Toby and found out more about his plans and future endeavors as he continues to make waves in the fashion business.

Who is Hatem Al-Akeel?
Some one that wants to change perception and wants to demonstrate how rich and beautiful Middle Eastern heritage and cultures can be.

You’ve recently been awarded with the “Forbes leaders Inspiring Entrepreneurial Elite Award,” how does it feel to have received such a prestigious award and being such an inspiration to many in the fashion industry?
It’s an honor to be recognized for being a businessman as well as being a designer. It took a long time for me to be able to understand what it takes to manage and run a business with a great deal of trial and errors as I always focused more on the creative side versus the business. It’s necessary for designers and entrepreneurs to understand that combining good business acumen with design is key. One cannot do without the other. A proper business plan will make a world of difference. So for me this award is like a tap on the back rewarding me for all the hardships of being a creative juggling design with administration. I hope to become a good example for future generations to realize that anything is possible to achieve with passion and strong vision and perseverance.

What defines your personal style?
Simplicity but with an edge.

In what ways do you incorporate your modern touches to traditional thobes? Is there a secret touch you’re willing to tell readers about?
For me “less is always more.” Keeping it simple and clean has always been part of my design ethos.

What influences your designs?
History, old Hollywood, art and architecture and different cultures.

What makes Toby significant and different from all other brands out there? How have you kept up with competitors?
I am the person behind the product. It is a reflection of who I am as a designer and as a person who embodies both Western and Eastern mentalities. My clientele pick up on my Western and Eastern sensibilities. I am also very “hands on” when it comes to the creative process. I would not let anyone else communicate my creative messages. It may take more effort at times to multi task but I am quite adamant on ensuring that the direction of each collection has a specific message. I do not look at what the competition is doing. I do however encourage more and more Saudis to become designers and pursue their dreams.

Your line is simple yet very sophisticated with exotic hints from here and there. Do you apply your personal style to all your designs?
Absolutely everything I create comes from a personal special place. Over the years however I have had to tone down and also see what are my clients’ requirements and philosophies and based on that i started creating different lines that are more conservative, wearable and practical. I also design men’s ready to wear shirts and jackets.

One of Toby’s projects is a line for women. Was it difficult to create it knowing fully well we women are extremely picky when it comes to designs and fabrics best to suit our different shapes?
Women’s collections are very delicate and must be handled differently. My approach is to pace myself and offer capsule collections. What I enjoy when I design for women is that there are no limits to the creative process, whereas as for men there are certain lines that must be drawn.

You are well known among Arab designers for reinventing the traditional thobe but keeping with its original essence as well. How are you able to combine both without extreme changes?
Understanding the profiles of our clients and knowing how to cater to them and their requirements. This is very important and it took me a while to realize. It’s all about the small subtle details that make a design stand out from the others.

The designs of Toby although traditionally Arabian yet have an exotic feel to them. How has your heritage helped with the process of keeping with traditional design?
I am actually from Najd and I embrace different heritages in my designs. We have such a rich culture, it’s always been my goal to demonstrate how deep and substantial it is in all of my design and creative messages. I also want to demonstrate how it can also hold its own vis a vis international fashion and general style.

Since your launch a few years back, what were some of the challenges that you’ve had to face in order to get to where you are now?
It’s always a challenge for any entrepreneur to start creating and building a brand. But it’s those experiences that help shape and mold the future. When I first started designing, I designed for myself and how I envisaged fashion to be. I realized over the years that being stubborn in business can limit you as a person and as a businessman. When I started realizing the potential of catering to different demographics things improved and changed drastically Alhamdulillah.

What is your latest project line and what would customers expect in the near future from Toby?
The opening of the new Toby Riyadh boutique on Tahliah Street has been exciting. Riyadh is a whole other market which I look forward to further pursuing. We also just launched Toby E commerce and a new Toby Junior Winter collection.


What do you love most about what you do? What makes you smile?
I love the fact that I can express myself through my work. There is so much more that I want to express creatively. When my clients tell me I made them feel good about themselves it is like music to my ears and puts a big smile on my face.

Hatem’s designs are contemporary, innovative, different and yet original all in one and there is an array of designs suitable for every individual. While Toby stores are only in the Kingdom, it is now possible to shop at Toby from almost anywhere in the world due to the launch of the brand new e-commerce website, www.tobybyhatem.com. Offering shipping to almost every country, the online portal features bespoke menswear including thobes and dress shirts. Each item can even be customized according to exact measurements. The website allows customers the comfort and privacy of shopping from their own homes. There is also free shipping for orders over $500 and free returns as well as a track and trace number, making online shopping an excellent alternative to visiting stores in person. The website accepts payments via various methods including Visa, MasterCard, American Express and PayPal.
“The late King Faisal of Saudi Arabia was a pioneer when it came to fashion and integrity. It was through him that I became inspired to focus on classic elegance,” says Hatem. He adds, “With the new website I want to showcase Saudi fashion to the world and allow everyone to see that our traditional clothing can be just as attractive as western high fashion.”