NEW YORK: A-list stars Nicole Kidman, Lupita Nyong’o and Margot Robbie flocked to Calvin Klein on Tuesday, wading through popcorn to watch Raf Simons’s latest meditation on Americana, where firefighter meets prairie.
The Belgian’s stewardship of the iconic US label, now into a second year, is one of the few bright spots in a New York Fashion Week suffering from an identity crisis, thinning schedule and a glut between the passing of one generation and the search for another.
Ruby Sterling again designed the set. Barns evoked the pioneer spirit of the prairies, adorned with work by Andy Warhol, and a room ankle deep in popcorn.
Model of the moment Kaia Gerber, 16, walked the runway, dressed in waders, watched by proud parents Cindy Crawford and Rande Gerber.
Simons said the collection evolved his window-onto-America theme for his Calvin Klein, this time referencing the discovery of America, the 1960s space race and the 21st century information age.
He said it was about freedom, democracy and no cultural hierarchy, listing 50 words in place of 50 states that included pioneer, firefighter, prairie, industrial and, of course, popcorn.
Clothes ticked the modesty trend for 2018 fall/winter, full skirts practically to the ground and boxy outerwear, with models kitted out in knitted balaclavas or hijab-inspired hats shielding hair and neck.
There was an emergency responder vibe in orange outerwear and pants, fluorescent strips on jackets, giant wader-style boots over the knee in both shiny black and white and baggy sweaters.
Giant silver gloves tapped the oven mitten look, a space-age version of the Ralph Lauren’s tasselled beige numbers that divided opinion for the US Winter Olympics team in Pyeongchang.
There was a utilitarian, workman-like feel, and clear odes to America — patchwork quilts and red checked fannel. Yet however striking and original, it did not shriek wearable.
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