From apartheid history to riding the waves with a Great White shark

V&A waterfront.

“We are going to watch Australia play South Africa in Cape Town,” announced my husband one fine day. “What, why?” was my natural response. He convinced me that it would be a memorable trip.
As a Pakistani with an unfailing love of cricket, I was intrigued, but had no idea what to expect. How I had never thought of going to South Africa earlier in my life, I will never know. If you are thinking of going there, just book it and go. You will never regret it.
We decided to visit Cape Town for a week in mid-March, near the end of the South African summer. This is an amazing time to go as the weather is ideal, and peak tourist season is over. After a nine-and-a-half-hour direct flight from Dubai to Cape Town on Emirates Airlines, we landed in probably one of the most picturesque cities I have ever imagined. Cape Town has it all — mountains, gardens, beaches and its famous Garden Route where the climate is strangely more Mediterranean than the rest of the city. 
We booked a hotel right on the Victoria & Albert (V&A) Waterfront, which is an incredibly lively area to stay in offering lots of entertainment. It has malls, restaurants, an outdoor concert venue, and even a little local market where I picked up local bites to snack on, including some delectable homemade ice cream that I would seriously consider flying back for.
Since we were unfamiliar with the city, we hired a tour company called PG Tops. I have to admit that this was our most brilliant decision. Our tour guide, Rolf, planned our days, suggested great stops for coffee and meals, and bought all the tickets that we needed. Even if we were unable to visit one of the sites, due to weather constraints, he was somehow able to adjust our schedule so that we were able to see everything.
Our trip was packed, and worth it. On the first day, Rolf arranged a walking city tour where we were able to explore the markets, landmarks, and famous eateries. We had the most amazing coffee at Truth Coffee Shop, where complex coffee-making equipment is showcased as part of the interior design of the store. To be honest, I was pretty impressed by South African food — it is divine. It seemed like everyone was focused on local and satisfyingly fresh ingredients.
We visited the colorful homes of Bo-Kaap, and saw public landmarks that were left as reminders of the contributions and the cruelties of apartheid. The people in the city were welcoming, kind and incredibly happy. They are proud of their country and their diverse Rainbow Nation, but also have no qualms about discussing with outsiders their history and struggles. People spoke honestly about their past, and how in a post-apartheid South Africa they must still contend with poverty, and the issues surrounding the townships — underdeveloped housing areas that were reserved for “non-white” residents during apartheid. One feels a strange sense of comfort when strangers choose to talk so openly about their past. It made me understand the larger entity that is taking the Rainbow Nation toward a brighter future.
After our trip around the city, we drove up to the base of Table Mountain and took a five-minute cable car to the top. The panoramic views of the city from there are unreal. Our next stop was one of my favorites, Kirstenbosch Gardens. It was like being on the island where Jurassic Park was shot with its pristine mountains and ancient alien-like trees. Our tour guide kept making us rub our fingers on every leaf as well because each one had a different and totally unique scent. It actually reminded me of being in a perfume shop and having to choose between earthy and floral scents!
The next day was our day at the cricket match, which was, as my husband had said, a memorable experience, but our tour of the historic towns along the Garden Route, was equally impressive. Rolf took us to an eclectic local glass factory, followed by a chocolate and coffee tasting in the area. I was so pleasantly surprised by the variety of activities that were available for us.
My favorite part of the trip though had to be the day-trip along the southwestern tip of South Africa toward the Cape of Good Hope. Our drive down Chapman’s Peak along the rocky Atlantic coast was breathtakingly beautiful. When we finally made it to the lighthouse at the top of the cliffs at Cape Point, I could feel the icy winds blowing from Antarctica. It was thrilling to realize that I was so close to Earth’s southernmost continent. On our way back to the hotel, we stopped at a beach to see the hundreds of adorable penguins that gather there.
Our very last day in Cape Town was spent on Robben Island where Nelson Mandela was imprisoned for 18 years. I was enjoying the boat ride over to the island with its stunning views of Table Mountain until I realized that the dolphin that I thought was swimming beside the boat was actually a fin that belonged to a Great White Shark. It then became quite obvious why a prison on an island was a highly strategic and cruel decision. Our tour guide, an ex-prisoner on Robben Island, told us powerful stories of the people he lived with, including Nelson Mandela, and other men who became leaders in post-apartheid South Africa.
I was close to crying the day we left. I am usually fairly happy to travel back to the comfort of my own home, but I did not want to leave. It was the first place that I had ever been that made me want to embrace a people’s approach to life. The easy-going attitude, food and outdoor-focused lifestyle, as well as the general vibe of pure contentment, was addictive. I can safely say that my husband was right — the trip was not only memorable, but one of the best I have ever taken.
— Naveen Shakir is an interior decorator and author of The Design Souk, a blog about travel, interiors, shoppingh and home decor in the Eastern Province.
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